Food history: how samosas became a staple in Portugal
In any given Lisbon cafe, you’ll come across a delightful assortment of salgados, that is, savory Portuguese snacks, often on display at the counter, tempting those who came in for something to drink and that soon enough may find themselves nibbling on a crunchy fritter. Amongst options that no one would think twice about if they’d belong here or not, including codfish fritters (pastéis de bacalhau), shrimp rissoles (rissóis de camarão), chicken pies (empadas de galinha) and meat croquetes (croquetes de carne), samosas, known in Portuguese as chamuças, usually stand out.
Featured image by Food Services Lab
For many, the samosa might seem like a familiar friend from Indian menus, but its story stretches much further back than its time in the Indian subcontinent. But, how did this incredibly popular snack find its way into the array of Portuguese salgados? The global travels of the samosa tell us about the intertwined histories of cultures, and therefore cuisines, across continents. Let’s trace the samosa’s path from its ancient origins to its current place in Portugal’s culinary scene, exploring how each culture it touched added new layers to its identity:
The origins of samosas
Photo by Big Chef Cooking on Youtube
The samosa, as we know it today, began its journey far away from the streets of India, and certainly even further from the eateries of Lisbon. Its earliest incarnation was as the samsa (pictured above), named for its pyramidal shape, in the ancient empires of Central Asia, more than a thousand years ago. These early versions were simple, filled with meats and spices, then baked in the hot ashes of a desert fire. Back then, traders and travelers along the Silk Road were already enjoying this snack, which was baked and not fried.
As these traders moved from region to region, the samsa traveled with them, entering the culinary traditions of the Middle East. By the time the Persian Empire embraced the snack, calling it sambuseh (pictured below), it had evolved into something remarkably close to the samosas the world at large knows today. As Persian chefs started experimenting with various fillings, the samosa started taking on new shapes. It was so well accepted that it became a regular at festive occasions and royal banquets, and this is how it solidified its status as part of the culinary culture of the region.
Photo by Saffron & Herbs
From Persia, the trajectory of the samosa’s journey shifted dramatically towards the Indian subcontinent. It was through the influential trade routes and the invasions of Central Asian warriors that the samosa entered Indian kitchens. Historically speaking, Indian cuisine has always been very open to external influences and adaptable too, so it came as no surprise that the samosa was then not only adopted but eventually also adapted.
Samosas in India
As the samosa became a part of India’s culinary repertoire, it kept undergoing transformations that reflected the immense variety (gastronomic and cultural) of the Indian subcontinent in itself. Also, this is such a versatile snack, easily adapted to local tastes and according to available ingredients, that the variety of samosas to be produced was nothing but natural.
Photo by The Tiffin Box
Across the vast expanse of India, different regions made the samosa their own. In the north, it was stuffed with spiced potatoes and peas – like the ones pictured above – often known as Punjabi samosas, and generally reflecting the vegetarian preferences due to Hindu dietary laws. The outer shell, originally baked in Persia, was here adapted to the Indian preference for fried foods, making the samosa irresistibly crispy. These are the same style of samosa found in countries neighboring India, some of them which were in fact a united nation was upon a time, namely in Pakistan or in Bangladesh, were samosas are known as shingara, as well as in Nepal, where the fritters take the name of singadas.
Photo by The Logical Indian
In contrast, the samosa’s evolution took a different turn in other regions of India, especially in Goa and surrounding areas. Under Portuguese rule from the early 16th century until 1961, Goa became a melting pot of Eastern and Western culinary traditions. The Portuguese influence was profound, introducing new cooking techniques, ingredients, and even entire dishes to the Indian palate. In Goa, the samosa incorporated meats such as pork and beef, seasoned with spices brought by the Portuguese from other parts of their empire. And this is how minced meat samosas were popularized, even though the filling of potatoes was also only made possible thanks to the Portuguese anyway, as potatoes were brought over to Asia by Portuguese traders, who had already been exploring South America where the tubers originally come from.
This Goan version of the samosa, which over time also became thinner and flatter as compared to the northern Indian samosa, became a reflection of the cultural synthesis that defined Goan cuisine, which was a blend of Indian and Portuguese, with Christianity and its values towards food as a part of its foundation.
Portuguese influence and the arrival of chamuças in Mozambique
The Portuguese took the Goan samosa with them as they expanded their trade routes to their African territories, particularly Mozambique. Mozambique, with its strategic location along the eastern coast of Africa, served as a central hub in the Portuguese empire for maritime trade. Here, the samosa found a new home and once again transformed. Influenced by the abundant seafood and local spices, the Mozambican samosa started to include fillings like spiced shrimp, fish, and chicken, along with the traditional beef and pork.
Photo by Cantinho do Aziz on Facebook
The adaptation of the samosa in Mozambique highlighted its ability to transcend cultural and geographical boundaries, becoming a sought after snack not just among the Portuguese settlers but also within the local communities. Furthermore, the sizable Indian diaspora (namely from the state of Gujarat) in Mozambique, which increased particularly in the second half of the 19th century, contributed even more to the popularization of all sorts of samosas in Mozambique. And, we believe, this is how the samosa started to become a global snack, more than an Indian one – when, in fact, it was never fully Indian to begin with, even though they are often seen as such, if we were to count on baked samsas from Uzbekistan and other areas of Central Asia, as the faithful precursor of today’s samosas.
Samosas in Portugal
Eventually, the samosa made its way from Mozambique to mainland Portugal, where it is known as chamuça, and where it was quickly adopted, becoming a favorite among the array of salgados offered in cafés and bakeries.
Photo by locojm on TripAdvisor
The story of the samosa’s integration into Portuguese cuisine is intricately tied to the historical events of the mid-20th century. After the Carnation Revolution of 1974, Portugal underwent a profound transformation, leading to the decolonization of its African territories, including Mozambique. With Mozambique gaining independence, a significant number of Mozambicans migrated to Portugal. Most of these immigrants settled in and around Lisbon, bringing with them their rich culinary traditions.
In the years following independence, Lisbon saw the emergence of small eateries and restaurants catering primarily to the Mozambican community. These establishments served as gathering points for Mozambican expatriates, offering them a taste of home in a foreign land. The food served in these eateries was authentically Mozambican, not adapted to fit Portuguese tastes but rather prepared to satisfy the nostalgic palates of those who had left their homeland. Mozambican cuisine itself is a fascinating blend of African, Portuguese, and Indian influences. The Indian influence on Mozambican cuisine, especially in recipes like samosas, can be traced back to the Gujarati community. Gujarati traders and their descendants have lived in Mozambique for centuries, and they brought with them their culinary heritage, which blended with local ingredients and Portuguese influences. The result is a unique fusion cuisine that characterizes much of what we now recognize as Mozambican food.
Many of these Gujarati-descendent Mozambicans moved to Portugal after the revolution, and their presence is strongly felt in Lisbon’s culinary landscape. These communities continued to prepare samosas in their traditional style, using spices and techniques passed down through generations. In doing so, they have also helped to popularize the samosa among the broader Portuguese population.
Initially, the samosa and other Mozambican dishes were relatively unknown to the average Portuguese person. However, as Lisbon’s population diversified, and as the Portuguese became more curious and open to exploring different flavors, the samosa began to make its way from these niche Mozambican eateries into mainstream Portuguese cafes and bakeries. The growing acceptance of samosas and other dishes from Mozambique is particularly evident in Lisbon, where the population of immigrants from former colonies and their descendants is most concentrated. Today, it’s not uncommon to find samosas served as part of a larger assortment of salgados in cafes across Lisbon, often enjoyed alongside a typical Portuguese coffee.
In contemporary Portugal, the samosa has become a staple in various forms, reflecting its journey through different cultures and regions:
– Goan style samosas: reflecting the influence of Portuguese colonial history in Goa, these samosas are typically filled with spiced meat, often beef or pork, or even seafood (like the shrimp samosa pictured right here below) reflecting the region’s Christian heritage. The spices used in Goan samosas are typically more robust and might include ingredients like vinegar and local chili peppers.
Photo by Jesus é Goês
– Mozambican style samosas: these samosas might feature fillings like spicy shrimp, chicken, or a blend of meat and local spices. The Mozambican samosa is a testament to the blend of Indian, African, and Portuguese culinary influences, with fillings that are more diverse and often spicier than those found in traditional Portuguese cuisine.
– Portuguese style samosas: over time, Portuguese cooks have created their own versions of chamuças, sometimes filled with ingredients more prevalent in Portuguese cooking, such as chouriço (a type of Portuguese sausage) or salted cod but, still, the most common types are the chicken ones, seasoned with a generic curry mix, giving the shredded poultry a distinctive yellowish look. These samosas tend to be less spicy than their Goan or Mozambican counterparts, catering to the more subdued Portuguese palate.
The presence of samosas in Portugal, particularly in Lisbon, is a reflection of the broader cultural integration that has taken place in the country over the last few decades. The fact that samosas, once a foreign delicacy, are now a common sight in Portuguese cafes and bakeries speaks to the way in which Portuguese society has embraced the culinary traditions of its former colonies. We’d like to believe that, on a less obvious perspective, this integration represents the blending of cultures, the acceptance of diversity, and the way in which food can serve as a bridge between different communities. In Portugal, the samosa ends up being a symbol of the country’s colonial history, its postcolonial identity, and the ongoing influence of its multicultural population.
Global variations of samosas
The samosa’s journey from Central Asia to the cafes of Portugal is just one chapter in its global story. Today, the samosa is a ubiquitous snack found in many parts of the world.
In other parts of Asia, the samosa was adapted to local taste, resulting in the fish stuffed bajiyaa on the Maldives, or the tinier samuza of Myanmar, customarily served over chickpea curry or even fully dipped in a dish commonly known as “Burmese samosa soup” or “Burmese samosa curry” – pictured here. In Indonesia, samosas may even have noodles as part of their stuffing, almost reminding us of the vegetable and thin noodle mix often featured inside a Chinese spring roll.
Photo by NDTV Food
Moving to the Middle East, particularly in Arab countries, the samosa takes the form of sambousek, often crescent-shaped and filled with minced lamb or beef, onions, and spices like cumin and cinnamon.
By now, there is no doubt that samosas are an integral part of the food culture in Eastern Africa, where the usually ground beef filled pastries are known as sambusa, sambuus or sambuuse.
In southern Africa, apart from Mozambique, countries like Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, also have their own versions of the samosa known as samoosa, incorporating local ingredients such as maize, lentils, and regional spices.
In the United Kingdom, for instance, the samosa became popular among the South Asian communities who migrated there in large numbers during the 20th century. In Britain, samosas typically feature a spicier filling and are often served with chutneys and sauces, just like they do in India, to please the local preference for bold flavors.
Photo by Time Out London
The cultural significance of the samosa extends beyond its taste and ingredients, and it serves as a reminder of centuries of explorations, trade and cultural exchanges that have shaped the modern world.
Where to eat the best samosas in Lisbon
We invite you to participate in a tradition that spans continents and centuries, all here within central Lisbon itself. Allow us to propose a little samosa route of Lisbon – by visiting these places and sampling their particular style of samosa, you’ll get to taste a little of the history of this snack, which is, in a way, the complex but delicious history of cultures mingling and, ultimately, of globalization:
- Try authentic North-indian style samosas in Lisbon at
The Coffee Shop
📍Centro Comercial Mouraria, Largo Martim Moniz, Piso -1, Loja 202, 1100-364 Lisbon
- Sample how Goa adapted samosas to include non vegetarian fillings such as meat or seafood at
Tentações de Goa
📍Rua de São Pedro Mártir 23, 1100-555 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/TentacoesDeGoa
- Dip your Mozambican samosas on spicy piri-piri sauce at
Cantinho do Aziz
📍Rua de São Lourenço 5, 1100-530 Lisbon
- Munch on thin Portuguese style samosas at any given Portuguese cafe or pastelaria, or try some of the most reputed ones in the city at Antiga Confeitaria de Belém – the historical bakery that propelled pastéis de nata to world fame has surprisingly good chamuças, clearly showing how they are a part of cafe culture now-a-days here in Portugal, and us locals don’t even question it anymore!
Pastéis de Belém
📍Rua de Belém 84 92, 1300-085 Lisbon
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