Foreign chefs that are redefining Lisbon’s dining scene – part 2

For the second installment of our series focusing on the transformative impact of foreign chefs on Lisbon’s culinary scene, we continue to explore the diverse influences reshaping the city’s gastronomy. In part 1 , we introduced you to chefs who have merged their distinct cultural backgrounds with Lisbon’s rich culinary traditions to create unique dining experiences. These chefs have not only enhanced Lisbon’s reputation as a global food capital but have also become integral to the city’s evolving gastronomic identity.

In this article, we turn our focus to a broader spectrum of culinary talents. While fine dining often captures the spotlight due to its sophistication and high-profile recognition, it’s just one aspect of the wonderful world that is Lisbon’s dining scene. Thankfully, there are a lot of very talented foreign chefs who are contributing to the local food scene, beyond the realms of upscale cuisine. Some introduce the city to an array of regional dishes from their home countries, while some others experiment with fusion concepts, usually challenging traditional perceptions of classical dishes.

These chefs come from all corners of the globe and bring with them a wealth of experiences that have shaped their approach to food. Some operate cozy eateries where the focus is on comfort and authenticity, serving dishes that are deeply rooted in their cultural heritage. Others have embraced the fusion trend, blending elements from multiple cuisines to create innovative, flavor-packed dishes that defy categorization, and which we love exploring. Above all, we appreciate how this diverse culinary influx offers Lisbon residents and visitors a taste of global culture through our favorite universal language: food.

Feat photo by Correio da Manhã

Chef Ljubomir Stanisic

Ljubomir Stanisic, born in 1978, in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina, has been a resident of Portugal since 1997 and is now nearly considered a local. His early life, deeply marked by the Bosnian War during his teenage years, shaped his resolute character and his path in the culinary world. Faced with the necessity to defend his community instead of experiencing a normal childhood, Ljubomir eventually sought refuge across various parts of the former Yugoslavia before making a transformative move to Portugal.

Seeking a fresh start away from the remnants of war and bleak prospects in his homeland, Ljubomir’s global travels profoundly influenced his culinary approach, transforming his personal hardships into resilience and an appreciation for life’s simpler joys. This perspective is echoed in his culinary philosophy, which cherishes humble ingredients and the comforting simplicity of dishes like the potatoes his mother cooked during times of scarcity.

In 2004, Ljubomir opened his first restaurant in Cascais. Five years later, he inaugurated 100 Maneiras in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto (Rua Teixeira 39), an establishment that quickly gained a reputation for its unique tasting menu. The restaurant’s name is a Portuguese play on words that would also translate as “without manners”, anticipating the disruptive way that is embraced around here. His culinary ventures expanded with the opening of Bistro 100 Maneiras (Largo da Trindade 9), which achieved international recognition when Monocle magazine named it the world’s number one bistro in 2017.

Ljubomir’s influence extends beyond his restaurants. Since 2016, he has provided gastronomic consultancy at the Six Senses Douro Valley. He has authored five books and served as a jury member on the first edition of the popular TV show Masterchef Portugal. His presence in media expanded with his co-authorship and starring role in the travel and food series Papa Quilómetros, broadcast across Europe by Fox International Channels. In 2017, he became the host of the Portuguese version of Kitchen Nightmares, capturing significant viewership and further establishing his media profile. His unique approach and vibrant personality have led many to regard him as Portugal’s answer to chef Gordon Ramsay.

In late February 2019, Ljubomir opened the new location of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, a culmination of a four-year planning process. This project not only represents the evolution of Stanisic’s vision as both a chef and a restaurateur but also cements 100 Maneiras as a distinctive brand in gastronomy. We believe it’s very worth visiting chef Ljubomir Stanisic restaurant and treat yourself to one of the available tasting menus (The Story or, in a more reduced version, as the name clearly indicates, The Short Story), including a fully vegetarian option which goes by the name Echoes of 100.

As if all the achievements mentioned weren’t enough to awaken your interest in the chef’s endeavors, Stanisic is also a partner in Carnal, a Mexican gastrobar. This venue, part of the Group 100 Maneiras, offers tequila and mezcal-based cocktails that perfectly complement a robust menu featuring appetizers, tacos, gringas, and a select few main dishes. The flavors are authentically Mexican, yet with a bold character that mirrors Stanisic’s own strong personality.

🌐www.instagram.com/ljubostanisic

Photo by Hiper FM

Chef Nirmal Save

Chef Nirmal Save, originally from Mumbai, grew up in a traditional family of farmers and fishermen on the western coast of India. Immersed in the rich traditions of regional Indian cooking, he developed a deep appreciation for the culinary arts under the tutelage of his mother and grandmother. Particularly influential was his grandmother’s mastery of spice preservation techniques, which Nirmal adeptly uses as part of his own kitchen practices.

Nirmal is the Executive Chef of Gunpowder Restaurants, a position that sees him frequently traveling between Gunpowder Lisboa (Rua Nova da Trindade 13) and Gunpowder London. His culinary approach at Gunpowder marries traditional Indian flavors with contemporary innovations, creating a menu that redefines Indian cuisine for a global audience. This blend of the old and the new is a testament to Nirmal’s respect for his roots as well as his forward-thinking culinary vision.

The story of Gunpowder is also deeply influenced by its founders, Harneet Baweja and his wife Devina Seth, who hail from Kolkata. With a shared heritage that treasures family recipes and culinary traditions, they moved to London in 2014. Recognizing a niche for authentic, home-style Indian dishes, they established Gunpowder alongside chef Nirmal, aiming to showcase the complexity and richness of Indian cuisine that goes beyond the conventional.

At Gunpowder Lisbon, which came after the restaurant in London, the fusion of Indian cooking with local Portuguese influences creates a unique dining experience. Dishes such as tuna fish croquettes with chive moilee, a spicy fish and coconut dish from India with Portuguese origins, blend Portuguese elements with classic Indian flavors, as for the Algarve rock oysters that are topped with a tangy pickled salad. Further highlighting the local fusion, the menu features chicken korma with potatoes with truffle from the Portuguese town of Bombarral. More than fusion recipes, we’re talking about inspired Indian cuisine which makes great use of locally available ingredients, particularly fish and meat, which are the centre of Gunpowder’s offerings, even though the menu also includes several plant forward options. 

Chef Nirmal’s imaginative approach ensures that Gunpowder’s menu continually evolves, offering flavors that are both familiar and novel, providing diners with an exciting culinary journey that challenges the palate and could hardly leave anyone indifferent. This creative interplay of tastes and cultures underlines Gunpowder and chef Nirmal Save’s mission towards crafting a dining experience that is truly unique, reflecting a deep care for quality, local ingredients, and quite a particular and nuanced sense of terroir.

🌐www.instagram.com/chefsave_nirmal

Photo by Magg 

Chef Cynthia Bitar

Cynthia Bitar, originally from Lebanon, is a prominent chef whose expertise and entrepreneurial vision have significantly enriched Lisbon’s dining landscape. Since 1998, she has led Nazira Catering, a highly renowned enterprise in the Lebanon and MENA region, showcasing her skill in delivering top-tier Lebanese cuisine. 

Here in Lisbon, chef Cynthia launched Touta Ballouta (Rua Domingos Sequeira 38) in 2020, a restaurant that merges traditional Lebanese dishes with Portuguese elements, introducing a creative twist on classic flavors. This initiative is particularly noteworthy as Middle Eastern cuisine is often underrepresented in Lisbon, predominantly featured in fast food contexts or at establishments that lack authenticity. Chef Cynthia’s efforts are vital in providing not only rich flavors but also in raising awareness about a cuisine that is often overlooked in the city.

Trained at the Institut Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France, chef Cynthia brings over two decades of culinary experience. Her background is evident in the sophisticated yet accessible menu at Touta Ballouta, where dishes like hummus with innovative touches, spicy batata harra (Lebanese spicy potatoes), and creatively prepared moghrabieh (a speciality couscous larger than the usual) and freekeh (roasted young green wheat) delight diners. Each dish is thoughtfully prepared, focusing on the depth of flavor and combinations that highlight the best of Lebanese but that, at the end of the day, in their own words, is “a freestyle Lebanese experience where tradition meets innovation.”

Beyond her restaurants, chef Cynthia is recognized for her contributions to international culinary competitions and her appearances in the media, which have solidified her status as a culinary reference. Her commitment to expand the customer’s horizons on what Lebanese food is all about is reflected in her hands-on approach at Touta Ballouta, where she strives to offer an experience that is representative of the cuisine of her home country, but that simultaneously transcends typical dining expectations. 

Through her restaurant in Lisbon, chef Cynthia Bitar offers a taste of genuine Lebanese cuisine but also educates her patrons with dishes that resonate with innovation and authenticity, thus helping bridge cultural divides through food, something we will always support and which we in fact strive to do ourselves during our food and cultural walks in Lisbon.

🌐www.instagram.com/cynthia_bitar

Photo by Hospitality News Middle East

Rajesh Jwarchan, aka Chef Honda

Rajesh Jwarchan, known affectionately as chef Honda, embodies a tale of redemption and culinary mastery. His journey began in Nepal, where a turbulent youth led him to Japan to seek a fresh start and immerse himself in the art of ramen. However, Japan brought its own challenges, and Honda spent years battling personal demons, squandering his earnings in casinos and on substances. This period of self-destruction lasted several years, when a return visit to Pokhara, Nepal, confronted him with the stark disappointment in his parents’ eyes, prompting a profound personal reassessment.

By 2014, Honda had rid himself of his addictions and chose Portugal for his clean slate, fueled by the dream of opening a restaurant that would serve “the world’s best ramen”. His early attempts in Lisbon faltered due to partnership issues, but these setbacks didn’t deter him. Supported by his parents, who had instilled in him a deep respect for cooking, Honda launched a new beginning in Cacilhas in 2023, and soon after, expanded with another location in Martim Moniz, one of the most multicultural neighborhoods of Lisbon.

Honda’s resilience is mirrored in his approach to cooking. His training years in Japan, though fraught with challenges, also contributed to sharpening his skills and ignited a passion for meticulous culinary practices, as attention to detail is something common in a classical Japanese kitchen environment.

Determined to honor his parents’ legacy, Honda focused on creating a unique dining experience at his restaurant, Hachiko Ramen (Rua de São Lázaro 51). True to his commitment to authenticity, everything at Hachiko is crafted from scratch, from the noodles to the rich, flavorful broths that simmer for hours, embodying Honda’s philosophy that great cooking requires patience and dedication.

Beyond the kitchen, Honda’s life story of transformation from self-destruction to self-realization resonates with several folks who learn about his past. He is not just crafting meals but is also actively involved in fostering a community around his culinary ventures, participating in food events and maintaining collaborations with local chefs and venues across Lisbon. These interactions help introduce innovative culinary concepts to the city and help debunk the myth that authentic food from a given part of the world, can or at least should only be cooked by folks from that region.

🌐www.instagram.com/hondasramen.pt

Photo by Time Out Lisboa

Chef Marcella Ghirelli

Marcella Ghirelli’s path through the culinary world spans continents and cuisines, mixing her passion for the arts and environmental awareness into her cooking. Her formative years were spent in Brazil at prominent restaurants like Vito by André Mifano and under the mentorship of Alex Atala at the two Michelin-starred D.O.M in São Paulo. It was under chef Atala’s influence that Marcella developed a profound appreciation for diverse gastronomic practices and sharpened her skills, encouraging her to seek experiences globally.

Her time in high-end kitchens sparked a critical reflection on the sustainability of fine dining and its intense workplace pressures. These insights fueled her commitment to a more humane approach to food, prioritizing sustainability in her subsequent roles. This shift became particularly evident when she took the helm at Comida Independente (Rua Cais do Tojo 28) in Lisbon. Already a fan and regular of the venue, Marcella very naturally blended into its community-oriented atmosphere. There, she crafted menus focused on minimizing waste and maximizing the use of fresh, local produce. Her efforts to utilize every part of the ingredient, from fruits to vegetables, underscored her commitment to impeccable technique and sustainable culinary practices. At Comida Independente, Marcella also found the space to infuse her dishes with creativity, free from the rigid constraints of traditional fine dining. The venue’s wine bar became a showcase for her innovative snacks that combined Brazilian flavors with local Portuguese elements.

Now, Marcella channels her creativity through pop-up and private events under the banner Cella, her own project, where she enjoys complete creative freedom. She curates an array of tapas and sandwiches, paired with a selection of low-intervention wines, but doesn’t stop at that.

Her frequent collaborations across Lisbon with other chefs and venues continually introduce fresh and engaging culinary concepts to the local food scene. Through pop-ups, food events, and culinary conferences, Marcella remains a dynamic presence in Lisbon, always ready to innovate and inspire with her commitment to food and sustainability.

🌐www.instagram.com/marcellaghirelli

Photo by Visão

If you are still curious about the incredible talent that foreign chefs bring to Lisbon’s culinary scene, subscribe to Taste of Lisboa’s newsletter to discover even more chefs’ stories.

Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:

Portuguese chefs worth the journey from Lisbon – part 2

Chefs who have made a mark on Lisbon’s culinary scene – Part 3

Food history: how samosas became a staple in Portugal

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