Portuguese chefs redefining vegetarian and vegan cuisines

March 28, 2025

Featured photo by Público

Think about food in Portugal, and images of smoky sardines grilling over charcoal, or chorizos flaming on traditional tascas will likely come to mind. But, as much as we love traditional Portuguese cooking, the truth is that there is a revolution simmering in the kitchens of our country.

Not only have the best contemporary Portuguese restaurants been challenging the ideas of what Portuguese cooking can be all about, there are chefs which are going a step beyond to redefine some of the best cooking that’s being done in this country. It’s not just about omitting meat or skipping the splash of cream – we’re talking about a bold redefinition of Portuguese cuisine as we know it, drawing on a movement that’s taking root worldwide. More and more chefs are pushing the boundaries with plant-based menus that refuse to play second fiddle to their meat-heavy counterparts. The result? Dishes that are inventive, sustainable, and, yes, downright delicious.

Globally, the culinary landscape is shifting. Michelin stars are now being pinned to vegan restaurants like Plates in London with one star, De Nieuwe Winkel in The Netherlands with two, and New York City’s Eleven Madison Park, which went all-in on veganism and not only survived but thrived, challenging the skeptics and proudly maintaining the three stars it already had since serving menus with animal derived ingredients. Establishments such as these are setting the stage, showing that plant-based dining can hold its own in the high stakes world of fine dining.

As an increasing number of people cut back on animal proteins, restaurants have been changing their menus including vegetarian and vegan dishes. But not only vegetarians opt for these dishes now. The fact that plant based food is more ubiquitous has helped transform veganism from a fringe interest into a central part of the culinary conversation, even in the more refined contexts, but certainly not limited to those. Initially, many questioned whether high-end dining could survive the loss of its traditional staples like foie gras and caviar. Yet, what’s unfolding is a narrative of abundance and innovation. Chefs are leveraging everything from ancient grains and forgotten vegetables to cutting-edge culinary techniques, ensuring that plant-based dining is not only sustainable but sumptuous. It’s about exploring new textures, flavors, and creative dishes that happen to be plant-based.

Here in Portugal, the scene is catching up, energized by chefs both homegrown and from abroad. They’re responding to a growing trend while also pioneering a new trail for how we think about food. For the sake of this article, we are focusing on Portuguese chefs, but let’s not forget about the amazing work done by some Lisbon based foreign chefs, such as Canadian chef Stephanie Audet at Senhor Uva, or Brazilian chef João Ricardo Alves at Arkhe which is, hands down, one of the best places for plant forward fine dining in the Portuguese capital. These and other chefs, including pastry chefs like the talented Sara Soares of CAOS – O Futuro É Vegetal, at the forefront of revolutionizing Portugal’s plant-based high end pastry, are proving that plant-based cuisine can be as rich, complex and, sometimes, can even be connected with local gastronomy.

Let’s meet some of the culinary pioneers who are redefining not just vegan cuisine but, up to a certain extent, the culture of dining in Portugal.

Chef David Jesus

a man smiling for the camera

Chef David Jesus, not to be mistaken with the homonymous chef David Jesus currently leading restaurant MAPA at the L’And Vineyards hotel in Montemor-o-Novo, was born and raised in Setúbal. He is contributing towards reshaping the culinary landscape of Portugal with a bold new palette centered on plant-based cuisine. At his young age, David’s innovative approach and profound connection to nature have already positioned him as a reference in the culinary world, crafting a gastronomic identity that bridges his Portuguese roots with a progressive, vegetal-centric approach.

Educated and seasoned in some of the most prestigious kitchens across Europe, David’s resume reads like a Michelin guide, with formative stints at Feitoria and Fortaleza do Guincho in Portugal, alongside international giants like chef David Muñoz or chef Quique Dacosta in Spain and restaurant Frantzen in Sweden. These experiences not only refined his culinary skills but also shaped his philosophical outlook on cooking, viewing it as a medium to communicate with diners while expressing his identity.

In 2021, chef Jesus took a definitive step in realizing his culinary vision by opening Seiva in Leça da Palmeira. Named after the Portuguese word for sap, the restaurant reflects his philosophy that cooking should be a vibrant expression of life’s essence, much like the sap that nourishes a plant. Located near the sea and just a stone’s throw from Porto, Seiva offers a menu that celebrates the natural bounty of the region, transformed by David’s inventive techniques and bold flavors. The dishes at Seiva are a testament to David’s creativity behind the stove and his commitment to elevating plant-based cuisine to the level of haute cuisine traditionally reserved for meat and seafood. In fact, some of these dishes precisely showcase how David harnesses family culinary traditions and reinterprets them through a modern, ethical lens, delivering complex flavors that challenge even the strongest meat advocates.

At Seiva, chef David Jesus’ work provides an immersive journey into the potential of plant-based cuisine. David believes that vegetables and plants offer an untapped arsenal of flavors and textures that can be transformed into dishes that resonate on an emotional level with diners. This philosophy is palpably reflected in every dish that leaves his kitchen, where each ingredient is treated with creativity and, dare we say it, even a certain degree of reverence.

Furthering his commitment to plant-based innovation, David launched Nem Carne Nem Peixe in 2023, a bold project that offers modern interpretations of traditional Portuguese dishes without the use of meat or fish. Although he later stepped back from this venture to focus on Seiva, the project highlighted his eagerness to experiment and push culinary boundaries.

David’s passion and dedication to his craft have garnered him significant accolades, including being named the Emerging Chef of the Year in 2023 by the prestigious Chef de Bancada panel. His active participation in culinary festivals like Chefs on Fire and collaborations with renowned chefs such as Alexandre Silva have further cemented his reputation as a trailblazer in the culinary scene.

Along with other chefs working on plant-based cuisine here in Portugal, chef David Jesus is paving the path towards a future where plant-based cuisine is not just an alternative but a preference. With his dynamic vision and unrelenting passion, David is not only redefining vegetarian and vegan cuisine in Portugal but also setting the stage for a global culinary movement that celebrates sustainability, creativity, and flavor. As he likes to say, “viewing vegetables with a little more love can extend their possibilities infinitely”, a mantra that he practices every day in his kitchen at Seiva.

🌐www.instagram.com/davidfjesus

Photo by Edições do Gosto

Chef Nuno Castro

a man standing in front of a building

Chef Nuno Castro’s journey through the kitchens of Porto’s high-end dining scene wasn’t paved with the usual culinary milestones. Instead of sautéing through the ranks, he cut his teeth in the gritty, high-pressure environments of places like Sheraton Porto and Caféina before setting up shop in the less trodden grounds of Leça da Palmeira with his latest venture, Fava Tonka. Here, Castro sidesteps the worn path of traditional vegetarian adaptations, opting instead to forge dishes that start from scratch, powered by the seasonal rhythms of the Portuguese coast and its hinterlands.

Fava Tonka, Castro’s brainchild, stands as an unapologetic celebration of the vegetable. Forget the boring approach of “vegetarian food as an alternative”. Here, plants are not substitutes but stars. This place doesn’t preach from the soapbox of trendy gastronomic sustainability – it lives it! A large part of the ingredients are sourced from within a stone’s throw, directly impacting local growers and reducing the usual food mileage to a mere footstep.

The ambiance at Fava Tonka mirrors the menu’s intent. The space is wrapped in natural materials, the earthy tones grounding the avant-garde dishes in something deeply elemental. Eating here feels like a sensory hike through the region’s flora, with Castro as the savvy guide who knows where to forage the best of the crop.

What makes Castro’s approach standout isn’t just his choice to forsake meat. It’s his ability to take the humble beet or the overlooked turnip and unlock its potential in ways that even loyal carnivores pause for thought. Eating at Fava Tonka goes beyond just consuming plant-based dishes – here, you can discover their full potential through thoughtful roasting, a hint of local sea salt, or a pairing with a unique biodynamic wine from nearby. This is a new way of experiencing food, crafted by a chef who believes the kitchen can quietly transform how we eat.

As Fava Tonka carves its niche in Leça da Palmeira, Castro’s plates speak of a chef who has found his rhythm, creating a dining experience that’s thought-provoking and so delicious. It’s here, in this small corner of Portugal, that Nuno Castro is making a culinary statement that resonates far beyond the local scene, inviting diners to reconsider what makes a meal memorable. It’s not the fanfare or the filigree. It’s the honest taste of the earth, served unvarnished but transformed. As chef Nuno Castro himself has stated on occasions, chances are his work would be more well known, perhaps even recognized by a Michelin star, if his establishment was in the capital. In Lisbon or not, we firmly believe chef Nuno Castro’s dishes should be sampled not just by vegetarians, but by anyone who believes in the power of cuisine as a source of pleasure but also as a compelling medium to tell stories, way beyond the realm of the restaurants themselves.

🌐www.instagram.com/nunomdcastro

Photo by Time Out Lisboa

Chef Diogo Formiga

a man looking at the camera

Chef Diogo Formiga, a former marine biologist turned high end chef, is a part of a selected group of professionals who are changing the perceptions of Portuguese cuisine via plant-based fine dining. Graduating with a degree in Biology and a master’s in Marine Biology from the University of Aveiro, Diogo’s scientific background profoundly influences his approach to cooking, viewing the kitchen as a laboratory for creativity and sustainability.

Diogo entered the culinary world in 2011, working initially with chef Luís Américo Teixeira, which marked the beginning of his transition from science to gastronomy. After completing his culinary education at the Escola de Hotelaria do Porto, he served as a gastronomic technical consultant for Gastrolab Food Solutions while also leading the kitchen at Bocca in Porto. These roles allowed him to refine his skills and deepen his understanding of gastronomy as a form of expression and connection.

In late 2021, Diogo Formiga joined the prestigious Grupo Avillez, stepping into a significant role as the head chef of Encanto, a groundbreaking venture led by José Avillez, Portugal’s most celebrated contemporary chef. Encanto, nestled in the original location of the acclaimed Belcanto, reflects Avillez’s commitment to innovation and excellence in Portugal’s contemporary high-end cuisine scene. Under Diogo’s supervision, the restaurant quickly ascended to culinary acclaim, earning a Michelin Star within its first year, a remarkable achievement especially notable as it was the first exclusively vegetarian menu on the Iberian Peninsula to receive such recognition.

Encanto’s philosophy is deeply rooted in sustainability and showcases vegetables as the stars of the dining experience, aligning with José Avillez’s vision of pushing the boundaries of traditional Portuguese cuisine into new, more ethical directions. Approximately 85% of the ingredients are sourced from selected local producers, which Diogo uses to craft dishes that are not only fresh and seasonally driven but also supportive of local agriculture. This sourcing strategy is pivotal in offering diners a culinary journey through about 12 meticulously crafted courses that demonstrate the versatility and richness of plant-based ingredients. The restaurant operates under the principle that “limitation cultivates creativity”, a maxim that Diogo fully embraces in his culinary practices. At Encanto, he is granted the creative freedom to explore and expand what vegetarian cuisine can achieve, all while being part of a team that is passionate about redefining the parameters of fine dining with a focus on plant-based dishes. This creative liberty is crucial for a restaurant that aims not just to surprise but also to fundamentally change how fine dining is perceived and executed.

Diogo’s dynamic approach to Encanto’s menu reflects the immediate availability and peak freshness of ingredients, with dishes that evolve not just seasonally but sometimes even weekly. This responsiveness to the environment and produce underscores the restaurant’s dedication to a sustainable culinary ethos. Encanto is more than just a restaurant; it’s a bold statement of purpose, advocating for a future where high cuisine is both sustainable and deeply connected to the local environment.

The success of Encanto under Diogo’s leadership is significant, not only for its Michelin star or its innovative dishes, it is, most of all, for its capacity to transform perceptions about vegetarian cuisine. It compels diners to view vegetables and plants not as mere side dishes but as central elements of sophisticated gastronomy. Chef Diogo Formiga’s unique blend of scientific insight and culinary artistry enhances the dining experience, contributing to a broader dialogue about food, culture, and sustainability, honoring and celebrating the natural world in the realm of Portuguese high cuisine.

🌐www.instagram.com/diogoformiga

Photo by Mesa Marcada

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