Portuguese chefs worth the journey from Lisbon
Feat photo by Expresso
When we think about Portugal’s culinary scene, Lisbon and Porto often come to mind as the epicenters of gastronomic innovation. However, beyond these major cities lies a wealth of extraordinary dining experiences, crafted by chefs whose passion for Portuguese cuisine is redefining what it means to eat well in our country. From the mountains of the north to the coastal gems of the south, Portugal’s regional chefs are creating food that we believe is certainly worth the trip, but more than that, that ends up being essential to understanding the full spectrum of our culinary heritage and the future of Portuguese gastronomy.
In recent years, gastronomic tourism has become more than just a trend. It’s a way of exploring a country through its food, with travelers planning their journeys around dishes they’re eager to try, restaurants they’re excited to visit, and chefs whose work they crave to experience firsthand. For those of us based in Lisbon, we’re certainly spoiled for choice, with so many world-class options right on our doorstep. But part of the joy of living in such a food-rich country is that there’s always something new and exciting to discover as long as you’re willing to take the journey.
Even though it’s no easy work to narrow it down, we have curated a list of chefs whose work makes them well worth the drive (or train ride) from Lisbon. These culinary talents are redefining Portuguese cuisine, showing us all in the most appealing ways that the magic of our food culture extends well beyond the capital city limits. So prepare your appetite, as here are the chefs whose work truly compensates the journey from Lisbon:
Chef David Jesus at Mapa
Chef David Jesus has long been a figure in the background of Portugal’s fine dining scene, having spent more than a decade working alongside chef José Avillez at the iconic Belcanto in Lisbon. However, now at the helm of Mapa in the serene setting of L’And Vineyards hotel in Montemor-o-Novo, Alentejo, he is stepping into the spotlight by himself, showcasing his unique vision for Portuguese cuisine.
David’s philosophy is to transcend the boundaries of local gastronomy, integrating the richness of Portugal’s culinary heritage with global influences that the Portuguese have encountered through their history of exploration. The restaurant Mapa is a clear reference to cartography (as the name translates as map from Portuguese), but also to the blending of cultures that shaped Portugal’s gastronomic identity. His menu, appropriately named “Caminhos” (or “Paths”), offers an immersive journey through flavors, combining local Alentejo ingredients with inspirations from different parts of Africa, Asia, India, and Japan, regions and countries all deeply tied to Portugal’s maritime past.
At Mapa, David crafts dishes that emphasize seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. The finest produce from nearby organic farms, such as citrus, artisanal cheeses, and grass-fed meats, is complemented by seafood from the coast of Setúbal and traditional olive oils from the region. Each dish is designed to highlight the essence of these products, presenting them in a way that honors their natural flavors while incorporating David’s creative twists.
David has a background in high-end gastronomy, with formative experiences in Michelin-starred restaurants like Belcanto, as well as training stints in world-renowned kitchens before Belcanto, including Quique Dacosta, Mugaritz, and Celler Can Roca. His time as José Avillez’s right hand at Belcanto provided him with the expertise to lead one of Lisbon’s most prestigious kitchens, but his move to Mapa is a bold step into his own spotlight, where he has the freedom to express his own culinary identity fully. With his deep respect for tradition and his adventurous spirit for innovation, David Jesus is ensuring that Montemor-o-Novo, and Mapa, are firmly placed on the Portuguese and even the international gastronomic map.
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/davidrdjesus
Photo by Expresso
🍴The restaurant:
📍Herdade das Valadas, N4, 7050-031 Montemor-o-Novo
🚗About 1h and 15 minutes from Lisbon
Chef João Narigueta at Poda and Híbrido
Chef João Narigueta is also making waves in the Alentejo dining scene, with two restaurants under his belt: Poda in Montemor-o-Novo and Híbrido in Évora. His approach to food is based in tradition, but with a modern twist that elevates the rustic flavors of the region. A rising star in Portuguese cuisine, João has already earned a Bib Gourmand distinction from the Michelin Guide, solidifying his place as one of the chefs to watch outside Lisbon’s culinary hub.
João’s journey through the culinary world reflects the close-knit nature of Portugal’s gastronomic community, with paths crossing between iconic restaurants and chefs. As a former chef de partie at L’And Vineyards, João had the opportunity to refine his skills in one of the country’s most respected fine dining establishments before branching out to create his own mark with Poda and Híbrido.
At Poda, João and his long-time friend, Miguel Dominguinhos, have created a space that feels both authentic and contemporary, set in a beautifully restored agricultural warehouse. The menu is a tribute to the traditional flavors of Alentejo, with classic dishes like migas com bacalhau, a porridge which repurposes stale bread with shredded cod, super simple yet bursting with flavor. Another standout is the enxovalhada, a fluffy sponge cake filled with walnuts and honey, dusted with cinnamon, which offers a taste of regional sweets. João’s philosophy at Poda is one of respect for the ingredients, the recipes, and the stories behind them. His goal is to deliver a dining experience that honors the ancestral roots of Portuguese cuisine while also acknowledging the importance of seasonality. Every dish is a reflection of his strong connection to the region, blending the traditional with the contemporary to create a uniquely Alentejo experience.
At Híbrido, João continues his quest to revive forgotten traditions and disappearing ingredients. His dedication to sourcing from local producers allows him to create dishes that are not only sustainable but also tied to the land. The restaurant itself is a bit of an experimental kitchen, where menus shift spontaneously to reflect the best of what’s available and in season. With Híbrido, chef João Narigueta is redefining the concept of farm-to-table, fusing ancient recipes with modern techniques, and ensuring that Alentejo’s culinary heritage continues to thrive.
João Narigueta’s work at both Poda and Híbrido highlights the importance of sustainability, respect for ingredients, and a commitment to preserving forgotten traditions. For those willing to venture outside Lisbon, his restaurants offer a taste of the Alentejo that is both nostalgic and refreshingly innovative. A journey well worth taking.
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/joao_narigueta
Photo by Expresso
🍴The restaurants:
Poda
📍Rua Sacadura Cabral 25, 7050-304 Montemor-o-Novo
🚗About 1h and 25 minutes from Lisbon
Híbrido
📍Rua de Serpa Pinto 34, 7000-505 Évora
🚗About 2hrs from Lisbon
www.instagram.com/hibrido_evora
Chef João de Eça Lima at Xisto ° Restaurante Louçainha
Chef João de Eça Lima, formerly a history teacher for over 16 years, has made a remarkable journey from the classroom to the kitchen, bringing with him a deep appreciation for tradition, culture, and history. As the head chef and owner of Xisto Restaurante in Louçainha, a small village nestled in the Serra do Espinhal, João has successfully put this once little-known spot on the map of Portugal’s culinary tourism scene.
The opening of Xisto in 2019 was a leap of faith for João. Despite the area’s beautiful natural surroundings and proximity to local attractions, like the Castelo de Arouce and the Ermida da Nossa Senhora da Piedade, Louçainha wasn’t on the radar for most tourists. However, João saw potential in the region, and his dedication to creating a destination restaurant has since paid off. By leveraging the natural beauty of the area and forming strategic partnerships with local accommodation providers and cultural agents, João has made Xisto a must-visit for both Portuguese and international travelers.
At Xisto, João brings a contemporary take to Beira Litoral’s culinary traditions. Despite the expectation that a restaurant in this region should focus on classic dishes like roasted goatling or chanfana, a typical stew made with old goat, João has always sought a deeper connection to the historical and cultural roots of the cuisine. His offerings reflect his commitment to research and rediscovery, serving dishes that are both innovative and respectful of the past. A prime example of his creative approach was his introduction of frog legs (pernas de rã), a dish that became a surprising hit. This balance of unexpected flavors with traditional roots has earned Xisto a loyal following.
João’s ability to engage the community and attract visitors to Louçainha through events like star-gazing nights, fado evenings, and mushroom foraging has been a significant part of his success. These experiences, combined with the restaurant’s exquisite location by the river, have helped Xisto overcome the challenges of seasonality, drawing diners throughout the year.
As a chef, João’s philosophy is based on three key principles: quality, creativity, and fairness in pricing. He believes in the importance of knowing the origin and production methods of ingredients, ensuring that every dish he serves has a story to tell. For João, creativity is about rebuilding and reinterpreting the traditional flavors of the region, providing a memorable experience for his guests. As he looks to the future, João is committed to ensuring that his restaurant remains a place where the past and present converge, offering an authentic taste of Portuguese culinary heritage in one of the country’s most beautiful, hidden landscapes.
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/joaolimacozinha
Photo by Evasões
🍴The restaurant:
📍Praia Fluvial da Louçainha, Espinhal, 3230-103 Penela
🚗About 2h and 15 minutes from Lisbon
www.facebook.com/restaurantexisto
Chef Noélia Jerónimo at Restaurante Noélia
Chef Noélia Jerónimo, often referred to as the Queen of the Ria Formosa, has become a prominent figure in Portuguese gastronomy and is even known to the masses as she is a former judge in the hit TV show Masterchef. At her Restaurant Noélia in Cabanas de Tavira, she practices her culinary magic, drawing in locals and tourists alike with dishes that embody the essence of the Algarve. Self-taught and passionate about cooking, Noélia is constantly experimenting with new recipes and flavor combinations, always aiming to elevate her dishes.
Her journey began in 1985, when as a young teenager, she started working at the local pastry shop that would later become her home base. Over the years, she and her husband transformed the family business from a pizza and pastry shop into the full-fledged restaurant we know today. With a firm focus on fresh, seasonal fish and seafood from the Ria Formosa, her menu showcases the finest ingredients from the region. Though there is a fixed menu, Noélia always incorporates new dishes depending on what’s freshest that day.
Noélia’s commitment to her craft has earned her widespread recognition, including the Chef of the Year award in 2021 from the Portuguese guide Boa Cama Boa Mesa. She is a fierce advocate for women’s empowerment, both in the kitchen and beyond, as reflected in her presence on social media. Her work has not only put her restaurant on the map but has also earned it the reputation of being one of the hardest places to book a table, especially during the summer months. With accolades from food critics, Noélia continues to evolve and expand her influence. She has cooked in prestigious kitchens internationally and collaborated with some of Portugal’s top chefs, such as Vitor Sobral and Justa Nobre.
Her cooking philosophy revolves around simplicity, seasonal products, and the freshest ingredients. Noélia’s dishes, which include a variety of seafood, rice dishes, oysters, and shellfish, are designed to evoke comforting memories of childhood. As she embarks on new ventures, including a partnership with the Real Marina Hotel & Spa in Olhão, Noélia shows no signs of slowing down. Her dedication to showcasing the flavors of the Algarve ensures that her restaurant remains a must-visit for anyone exploring the region. Just be sure to reserve well in advance as her tables fill up fast!
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/noeliajeronimo
Photo by NIT
🍴The restaurant:
📍Av. Ria Formosa 2, 8800-591 Cabanas
🚗About 3hrs from Lisbon
www.instagram.com/restaurantenoelia
Chef Rodrigo Castelo at Taberna Ó Balcão
Chef Rodrigo Castelo is the mastermind behind Taberna Ó Balcão in Santarém, and a true ambassador of the Ribatejo region. His restaurant is a must-visit for those seeking a culinary experience rooted in local ingredients, with a special focus on river fish and wild game. Since opening Taberna Ó Balcão in 2013, Rodrigo has gained a loyal following and earned prestigious accolades, including his first Michelin star in 2024, as well as a Green Star for sustainability.
Rodrigo’s approach to cooking is clearly influenced by his upbringing in Santarém, where he was constantly surrounded by the rich flavors of traditional Portuguese cuisine. His love for cooking started early, inspired by family meals where his mother prepared hearty dishes, and his father handled the snacks for friends. Rodrigo became increasingly passionate about the kitchen, where he began experimenting with ingredients and techniques at social gatherings.
Despite his love for food, Rodrigo’s initial career path took him to animal production studies at the Escola Superior Agrária in Santarém, followed by a stint in the pharmaceutical industry. Yet, his passion for cooking never waned, and in 2013, he opened Taberna Ó Balcão, a place where he could finally bring his culinary visions to life. This restaurant, with its traditional tavern-like atmosphere enhanced by modern design, quickly became a local favorite and eventually started gaining recognition.
At Taberna Ó Balcão, Rodrigo’s commitment to sustainability is evident in his innovative use of predator species of river fish that are both delicious and beneficial to the ecosystem. His menu also features wild boar, wild duck, and a variety of seafood dishes, all prepared with a modern twist while respecting the heritage of the Ribatejo region.
Rodrigo’s dedication to his craft and his region has put Santarém firmly on the gastronomic map. His culinary journey, from cooking for friends to leading a Michelin-starred kitchen, showcases his drive to elevate local ingredients and bring the unique flavors of Ribatejo to the forefront of Portugal’s dining scene. For food lovers, a trip to Santarém, to eat at Taberna Ó Balcão will result in an exploration of the deep connection between land, river, and plate, all guided by a chef whose passion for his roots shines through in every dish.
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/castelorodrigo
Photo by Evasões
🍴The restaurant:
📍Rua Pedro de Santarém 73, 2000-223 Santarém
🚗About 1h and 15 minutes from Lisbon
www.instagram.com/restauranteobalcao
Stay connected with the best of Portugal’s culinary scene! Follow us on Instagram and subscribe to the Taste of Lisboa newsletter to learn more about the chefs, restaurants, and food trends that are redefining Portuguese cuisine. #tasteoflisboa
Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:
Day trips from Lisbon that we locals also enjoy
Where Lisbon locals go for lunch
Chefs who have made a mark on Lisbon’s culinary scene – Part 3
Real people, real food. Come with us to where the locals go.
Signup for our natively curated food & cultural experiences.
Follow us for more at Instagram, Twitter e Youtube