Portuguese chefs worth the journey from Lisbon – part 2
Photo by The Art of Tasting Portugal
Portugal’s culinary landscape has become more exciting and dynamic than ever, with remarkable chefs redefining traditional flavors, techniques, and ingredients across the country. While the country’s capital is often the starting point for many food lovers exploring Portuguese cuisine, and we’re obviously here to support that journey for many of you via our food and cultural walks in Lisbon, we must admit that this is just one part of a rich culinary landscape.
Porto, our second largest city, is also home to an ever-growing dining scene that’s bold, creative, and deeply connected to the country’s gastronomic heritage. But Portugal’s culinary treasures certainly do not stop there. Beyond Lisbon and Porto, we find countless hidden gems that reveal a different side of Portuguese cooking: one shaped by the local terroir, seasonal produce, and the unique character of each region and the personal history of each cook behind the stove.
In this second part of our series, we continue our journey by introducing chefs who are crafting standout dining experiences well beyond the capital – read “Portuguese chefs worth the journey from Lisbon – part 1” here. This time, we’re heading north to Porto, where two acclaimed chefs are making waves with menus that showcase both innovation and tradition in Portugal’s ever happening north. Moving towards the interior, we’ll discover other celebrated chefs in Trás-os-Montes, an area too often overlooked, both when it comes to food but also speaking in broader terms, such as an overall travel destination, but that it is filled with distinctive culinary traditions, unique landscapes and so much character. Finally, we’ll travel south to the Alentejo, where a talented chef who formerly worked in Lisbon has brought her passion for local ingredients and inventive techniques to her very own restaurant, creating a must-visit destination for food lovers seeking something unique.
We invite you to join us on a journey to explore the chefs who are proving that Portuguese cuisine is much more than a singular experience: it’s a country-wide celebration of creativity, heritage, and culinary excellence!
Chef Aurora Goy at Apego
Aurora Goy’s journey to the Porto food scene is deeply personal, blending the traditions of her Portuguese heritage with the expertise gained from her French upbringing. Born and raised in France to a French father, who also worked as a chef, and a Portuguese mother from the Minho region, Aurora’s early life was spent between two worlds. Her family vacations in Portugal gave her a strong connection to the country’s flavors and customs, instilling in her a sense of nostalgia that would later shape her culinary path. This bicultural background sparked Aurora’s decision to pursue a culinary career in France, where she trained with icons like Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy before crossing into Portuguese fine dining with a stint at José Avillez’s Belcanto in Lisbon.
In 2018, she took a leap and established her own restaurant, Apego, in Porto. For Aurora, Apego is a place to showcase her cooking, while it’s also a tribute to her roots and her love for Portugal. The name itself, meaning attachment, is a reflection of her personal connection to family, memories, and the Portuguese countryside. With her restaurant, she aims to create a space that brings people together, where good food, conversation, and a relaxed atmosphere mirror the gatherings that marked her own childhood.
Apego’s design and menu echo this sense of intimacy and authenticity. The open kitchen, where Aurora and her team prepare each dish in full view of guests, creates a welcoming, personal experience. The menu is seasonal and ever-evolving, drawing on local ingredients sourced from small, independent farmers. While the dishes highlight Portuguese flavors, Aurora’s French training is subtly woven in through the refined techniques she uses to elevate each dish, from delicate sauces to meticulous plating. Standouts like the black pork with sweet potato and sea bass with celeriac exemplify her skill in balancing both French finesse and the bold simplicity of Portuguese cuisine. From the desserts menu, France and Portugal marry beautifully in her madeleine with clementine and rice cream.
For those looking to fully experience her culinary approach, the five-course tasting menu, Menu Desapego, offers a journey through Aurora’s favorite ingredients and techniques. Each dish invites guests to make new memories while connecting with Portugal’s culinary heritage. Chef Aurora Goy rediscovered Portugal in her own way via her cooking, and you can discover Portugal via her edible stories too!
👨🍳The chef:
Photo by Visão
🍴The restaurant:
📍Rua de Santa Catarina 1198, 4000-457 Porto
🚗3h30 hours from Lisbon, if you take the Alfa Pendular train
www.instagram.com/apegorestaurante
Chef Vasco Coelho Santos at Grupo Euskalduna
Chef Vasco Coelho Santos has made a remarkable impact on Portugal’s dining scene, blending his global culinary experiences with a deep appreciation for traditional Portuguese flavors. After initially studying management, Vasco’s love for cooking led him to pursue a career in the culinary arts. His early training brought him from Porto to Lisbon, where he refined his skills at places like Tavares Rico with chef José Avillez. He later trained at some of Spain’s most prestigious kitchens, including Mugaritz, Arzak, and the legendary El Bulli, where he worked alongside culinary icons such as Andoni Aduriz and Ferran Adrià. These formative years instilled in Vasco a dedication to creative cuisine grounded in excellence.
Upon returning to Porto, Vasco launched Euskalduna Studio in 2016, a highly intimate and innovative space inspired by his time in the Basque Country. At Euskalduna, he and his team deliver a dining experience where Portuguese and Basque influences converge, celebrating local ingredients through imaginative tasting menus. In this cozy setting, guests enjoy a close interaction with the chefs, witnessing each dish’s artistry and the perfect blend of tradition with modernity.
Building on his success, Vasco introduced Semea by Euskalduna, a restaurant named after the Basque word for son, where the focus is on shared plates and communal dining. Semea embraces Portuguese flavors in a relaxed, inviting environment that encourages diners to savor the rich taste of Portugal, reinterpreted through Vasco’s innovative lens.
In addition to these signature spaces, Vasco has expanded his culinary vision to include other unique ventures. Seixo by Vasco Coelho Santos, located at Sandeman Quinta do Seixo, combines regional flavors with the chef’s creative touch, making it a must-visit in the Douro Valley. For lovers of Nikkei cuisine, Kaigi offers an inspired fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors with a nigiri bar, izakaya, and a variety of Nikkei-inspired dishes. These projects, along with his artisanal sourdough bakery, Ogi by Euskalduna, and sustainable seafood shop, Peixaria by Euskalduna, embody Vasco’s commitment to high-quality ingredients, sustainability, and a celebration of Portuguese traditions, while being more than open to the wider world!
One wouldn’t think chef Vasco Coelho Santos could afford the luxury of time to be open to even more projects, but he still manages to do selected events as a private chef, which we think is truly remarkable. For food lovers visiting Porto, going to eat at at least one of the restaurants created by the chef, all part of Grupo Euskalduna, should be top of the list.
👨🍳The chef:
Photo by Expresso
🍴The restaurants:
🚗All in and around Porto and the Douro Valley, so follow the train tip above, or get there driving up the A1 highway, for about 3h to 3h30 hours. We would recommend spending a weekend up north, to make the most of chef Vasco Coelho Santos’s projects and pop into Apego too. What a wonderfully gastronomic weekend that would be!
Euskalduna Studio
📍Rua Santo Ildefonso 404, 4000-466 Porto
www.instagram.com/euskaldunastudio
Semea by Euskalduna
📍Cais das Pedras, 15, 4050-265 Porto
Peixaria by Euskalduna
📍Rua José Gomes Ferreira 191, 4150-442 Porto
www.instagram.com/peixariabyeuskalduna
Ogi by Euskalduna
📍Rua Santo Ildefonso 426, 4000-466 Porto
www.instagram.com/ogibyeuskalduna
Seixo by Vasco Coelho Santos
📍Quinta Do Seixo, Valença do Douro, 5120-495 Tabuaço
Kaigi
📍Rua Eugénio de Castro 226, 4100-225 Porto
Chef Óscar Geadas at G Pousada
Óscar Geadas, a celebrated chef hailing from the Trás-os-Montes region, grew up immersed in the culinary world, helping in his parents’ restaurant, O Geadas, where he first developed his refined taste for regional flavors. Although he initially pursued Environmental Engineering at the University of Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro, his passion for cooking ultimately led him back to the kitchen, where he developed his skills and began making a name for himself.
In 2014, Óscar and his brother António, who is a sommelier, opened G Pousada in Bragança’s historic Pousada de São Bartolomeu. The restaurant quickly became known for its dedication to local ingredients, highlighting the unique flavors of the Trás-os-Montes region through a menu that changes with the seasons. Óscar’s dishes, deeply rooted in regional traditions, take advantage of nearby resources like bísaro pork, artisanal cheeses, and native mushrooms, presented with a modern approach that respects their heritage. Each ingredient is carefully selected to reflect his commitment to showcasing the best of the “Reino Maravilhoso” (“Marvelous Kingdom”), as Portuguese writer Miguel Torga once described the region.
In 2019, Óscar’s dedication was recognized with a Michelin star for G Pousada, marking a significant achievement not only for him but also for the Trás-os-Montes area, which is often overlooked by travelers, both Portuguese and even more so internationally. His restaurant has also consistently earned the prestigious Garfo de Ouro from Boa Cama Boa Mesa magazine, cementing its status as a dining destination for those seeking contemporary yet authentic Portuguese cuisine.
In 2021, Óscar expanded his influence in the Portuguese culinary scene by joining MasterChef Portugal as a judge alongside chefs Marlene Vieira and Vítor Sobral. This new role introduced him to a wider audience, but G Pousada remains the heart of his work, where he emphasizes proximity to local producers and terroir. His brother António, carefully curates the wine pairings to complement Óscar’s dishes, ensuring that every meal is representative of the region
G Pousada has become an ambassador for Trás-os-Montes, attracting guests from across the country and beyond to experience a true taste of this unique region. Through his work, there’s no doubt that chef Óscar Geadas offers a dining experience that honors the culinary heritage of Trás-os-Montes while decidedly elevating it too!
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/chefoscargeadas
Photo by Mesa Marcada
🍴The restaurant:
📍Pousada de São Bartolomeu, 5300-271 Bragança
🚗At almost 500 Km (about 300 miles) from Lisbon, this is no day trip from the capital. Take a car, drive to the Douro, from the coastal areas near Porto to the interior in Trás-os-Montes. Make a little food inspired road-trip… we promise it will be so worth it!
Chef Pedro Lemos at Pedro Lemos and Bomfim 1896
Chef Pedro Lemos is a leading name in Portuguese fine dining, known for his commitment to elevating Portuguese cuisine through deeply personal and refined culinary experiences. Originally pursuing a degree in engineering, Pedro discovered his true calling in the kitchen, a realization that led him to leave university and train under influential chefs such as Miguel Castro e Silva and Hélio Loureiro. Furthering his studies at the Escola Superior de Hotelaria e Turismo do Estoril, he practiced alongside chef Aimée Barroyer at the Pestana Palace, developing a foundation in precision and technique that would later define his culinary style.
In 2009, Pedro opened his eponymous restaurant, Pedro Lemos, in a 19th-century building in Porto’s Foz Velha district, a charming area where the Douro River meets the Atlantic. Since earning its first Michelin star in 2014, the restaurant has become a landmark of Porto’s fine dining scene, renowned for its carefully crafted tasting menus that emphasize seasonal, local ingredients. Each dish is meticulously structured to highlight the main ingredient with complementary elements, creating harmonious compositions such as foie gras with pear and brioche or sea bass with celeriac and parsnip. The tasting menu at Pedro Lemos is designed as a culinary journey that immerses diners in the flavors and textures of Portugal, all with Pedro’s signature touch.
Pedro’s commitment to honoring nature and local terroir extends to his wine cellar, which features selections from celebrated producers across Portugal and international regions. Curated by his team, the wine program reflects the same dedication to quality and balance that defines his cuisine, providing an exceptional pairing experience for each dish.
In addition to his namesake restaurant, Pedro collaborates with the Symington Family Estates at Bomfim 1896. Located in a beautifully restored wine warehouse at Quinta do Bomfim in the Douro Valley, this project captures the warmth and authenticity of family cooking in a sophisticated, contemporary setting. Inspired by the wood-fired kitchens of traditional Douro homes, Bomfim 1896 showcases dishes prepared over an open wood-fired stove and grill, bringing a unique, rustic elegance to the dining experience. The restaurant embraces the rich heritage of the region, using locally sourced ingredients and pairing them with the renowned Symington wines to create a harmonious fusion of food, history, and terroir.
Pedro Lemos’s work has made him a central figure in Portugal’s culinary landscape, and his restaurants continue to attract both locals and international guests eager to experience the depth of Portuguese flavors. Pedro’s influence on Portuguese gastronomy is quite deep, offering diners a true taste of Portugal in every meticulously crafted dish.
👨🍳The chef:
www.instagram.com/chefpedrolemos
Photo by Visão
🍴The restaurants:
🚗Include these stops on your Douro road-trip above and make the most of your journey from Lisbon. If traveling directly from the Portuguese capital, it would take you about 4 hours to drive straight to Bonfim 1896.
Pedro Lemos
📍Rua do Ouro 258, 4150-554 Porto
Bomfim 1896 with Pedro Lemos
📍Quinta do Bomfim, 5085-060 Pinhão
https://pt.symington.com/bomfim1896-pedrolemos
Chef Ana Moura at Lamelas
Chef Ana Moura, originally from Lisbon, spent her childhood summers barefoot and free in the coastal village of Porto Covo, where her maternal roots run deep. This beloved Alentejo region, known for its rugged coastline and tranquil pace, became Ana’s second home and a major source of inspiration. After years of working in Lisbon and Spain, working and learning new skills alongside renowned chefs like Elena Arzak and applying her craft at acclaimed restaurants such as Eleven and Bacalhoaria Moderna, Ana felt the pull back to Porto Covo to open her own restaurant. This vision became Lamelas, named after her mother’s family and located in the heart of Porto Covo, where Ana spent so many of her formative years.
Ana’s cuisine at Lamelas is a tribute to Alentejo’s authentic flavors, but she brings her own creative and sophisticated twist to each dish. Her menu pays homage to local traditions without strictly adhering to conventional recipes, allowing Ana to introduce unexpected elements, like her forkbeard fish with clams in green sauce, a creative take on the traditional Alentejo fish stew. Her process is deeply rooted in tasting each ingredient individually and then experimenting with pairings until the ideal balance of flavors and textures emerges, as seen in her standout stuffed squid with turnip greens and fish roe pâté.
At Lamelas, Ana focuses on local ingredients sourced from nearby farms and markets. She works closely with small producers, sourcing bread, vegetables, and meats from within 50 kilometers, and she gives special attention to local wine and medronho (a traditional spirit from southern Portugal, made with the fruit from the strawberry tree – not to be mistaken with actual strawberries) producers to ensure that the flavors on the table reflect the terroir around Porto Covo. With views of the bay from the restaurant’s terrace, Lamelas offer a culinary journey in a stunning setting.
Ana Moura’s story is one of returning to her roots and creating a cuisine that celebrates the essence of Alentejo, with her own modern, refined touch. Through Lamelas, she shares a piece of her past, a passion for the local landscape, and an enduring respect for the rich culinary heritage of her family’s homeland.
👨🍳The chef:
Photo by Observador
🍴The restaurant:
📍Rua Cândido da Silva 55A, 7520-437 Porto Covo
🚗About a 2hr drive from downtown Lisbon. Add 20 minutes more if you prefer to take the scenic route and make a stop at the beach by the lovely Comporta.
https://lamelasrestaurante.com
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Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:
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Chefs who have made a mark on Lisbon’s culinary scene – Part 1
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