Santos travel guide for food lovers
Feat photo by Saudade Apartments
To properly discover Santos, one must peel back layers of history of one of Lisbon’s most well liked neighborhoods by locals and expats alike. While it’s no secret hideaway, being frequented by tourists for its prime location near the heart of Lisbon, Santos offers a distinctive blend of the traditional and the trendsetting, presenting a variety of things to see, do and eat that appeals to a very broad crowd, from locals clinging to tradition, to foreigners seeking the latest hipster joint to grab a bite or a glass of natural wine at.
Photo by Lisbonne Idée
Situated alongside the Tagus and neighboring the historic Estrela district, Santos is an area where Lisbon’s traditional soul and new-age spirit seem to effortlessly become one. Officially named Santos-o-Velho (literally, Santos the old), reflecting its old-world roots, this neighborhood buzzes with activity, particularly after the sun goes down. Here, old establishments that have stood the test of time coexist with the fresh faces of Lisbon’s hip scene, creating a lively atmosphere that captures the essence of the city’s eclectic character these days.
Photo by Athena Advisers
Santos is renowned for its architecture, with streets lined by the former mansions of Lisbon’s aristocracy. Yet, this elegance isn’t just a thing of the past. The area was designated Lisbon’s Design District in 2005, turning it into a magnet for decorators and designers. In Santos, you can stroll from antique shops brimming with history to sleek galleries (like Paris:Sete, Largo Vitorino Damásio 2 A C) showcasing cutting-edge design that wouldn’t be out of place in other major world cities like Paris, London or New York.
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Cultural landmarks such as the National Museum of Ancient Art (Rua das Janelas Verdes) offer treasures of Portugal’s artistic past, while the neighborhood’s streets are alive with the youthful energy bars and cafes, frequented by university students to the city’s creative minds.
Photo by Lisboa Cool
If you are into museums, you can’t miss the quirky Museu da Marioneta (Rua da Esperança 146), located on Convento das Bernardas. As the first national museum entirely dedicated to puppetry, it has a mission to collect, maintain, conserve, research, exhibit, and disseminate the art of puppet theater and its history. This unique museum not only showcases traditional and contemporary puppetry from around the world but also serves as a cultural center that hosts workshops, performances, and exhibitions.
Photo by Festa do Cinema Italiano
Further enriching Santos’ cultural scene is Teatro A Barraca (Largo Santos 2A), located at Largo de Santos, which has been a staple of Lisbon’s independent theater community since its founding in March 1976. Known for staging a wide variety of theatrical genres, from dramas that appeal to mature audiences to playful shows designed for children.
Photo by Imovirtual
The picturesque Madragoa, Lisbon’s old neighborhood with its winding alleyways and traditional Fado houses, injects a nostalgic note into the happening contemporary atmosphere of Santos. Known for its charming, tiled facades and narrow cobblestone streets, Madragoa reminds us of what Lisbon used to be like back in the day. This neighborhood is not only a quiet retreat from the bustling main avenues but also comes alive spectacularly during Lisbon’s Festas Populares in June. During the festivities, Madragoa becomes one of the central hubs for the Santo António parties, celebrated with colorful street decorations, parades, and the aroma of sardines grilling in the open air.
Santos is also a hotspot for gastronomic adventures during the rest of the year. The neighborhood is a testament to Lisbon’s culinary diversity, where traditional Portuguese taverns (particularly concentrated along a street called Rua da Esperança) are nestled alongside trendy eateries that reinterpret global cuisines with a local twist. In fact, the area’s transformation is perhaps most deliciously experienced through its array of dining options. For the sake of this article, we focus on businesses that serve local old time recipes served in family-owned establishments, and also some more contemporary restaurants that are doing more out of the box things, yet with some Portugality in their essence.
Best portuguese restaurants in Santos
O Tachadas
If you can only visit one restaurant of traditional Portuguese food in Santos, allow us to share that O Tachadas would be a safe bet. This well-known eatery among locals is popular because of its traditional Portuguese cuisine, and particularly acclaimed when it comes to grilled meats served in more than generous portions. True to the essence of a classic Portuguese tasca. Inside you’ll be welcomed by a lively atmosphere that may even be considered too noisy by some. But if you don’t mind eating with the noises of the kitchen coming through to the dining room, while the football match on TV is quite loud too, you can enjoy what for many is an exceptional veal chop seared to perfection over open flames. Other recommended dishes at O Tachadas include typical comfort recipes like açorda Alentejana [inserir link para novo artigo sobre comida Alentejana], a simple garlic broth topped with rustic bread and a poached egg; shredded salt cod with eggs and potatoes (bacalhau à Brás); and fried small mackerel with kidney beans rice (jaquinzinhos com arroz malandrinho de feijão).
📍Rua da Esperança 178, 1200-808 Lisbon
Photo by CookiesMonster on TripAdvisor
Taberna da Esperança
Tucked away on Rua da Esperança, in the heart of Lisbon’s historic Madragoa neighborhood, Taberna da Esperança claims to serve traditional Portuguese cuisine but anyone who visits will clearly understand that, at least some of the dishes, have a modern twist. The menu does include classic petiscos like scrambled eggs with alheira sausage and black pork cheeks with sweet potato purée, but also surprises with creative recipes such as portobello mushrooms stuffed with game sausage or fried shrimp with sun-dried tomatoes. For us it is pleasant to see that, despite its traditional label, Taberna da Esperança isn’t afraid to innovate beyond what a typical Portuguese tasca would normally serve. In fact, you do not need to be an admittedly contemporary tavern to set aside the traditional repertoire of the Portuguese kitchen here and there or, at the very least, put in some effort to elevate traditional recipes. With quite an impressive wine list featuring labels from many of Portugal’s wine regions, Taberna da Esperança offers a dining experience both classicists and those perhaps not as used to home style Portuguese food are bound to enjoy.
📍Rua da Esperança 112, 1200-658 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/tabernadaesperanca
Photo by Taberna da Esperança on Facebook
Petiscaria Ideal
Operated by the same team as Taberna da Esperança, Petiscaria Ideal has a similar concept of serving small dishes meant to be shared. In Portuguese we have a word for eating this way: petiscar. If you fancy Italian bruschetta, you’ll enjoy Portuguese tibornas, that is, open sandwiches on toasted bread, here served with toppings like tomato and coriander sauce or goat cheese with rosemary and honey. Seafood lovers will appreciate the bacalhau à Zé do Pipo, an oven-baked salted cod recipe typical from the north of Portugal, featuring the fish, mashed potatoes and quirky layer of mayonnaise which forms an irresistible crust cooked au gratin. If salted fish is not your thing, try the octopus escabeche or the seared tuna served with sweet potatoes. For those who enjoy meat, the estufadinho de porco preto offers tender black pork stewed with pepper jam, best enjoyed with a glass of Portuguese red wine. If you are planning to visit Petiscaria Ideal, we recommend coming with friends, as there are so many options you’ll want to try and, when it comes to petiscos, sharing truly is best.
📍Rua da Esperança 100, 1200-000 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/petiscaria_ideal
Photo by The Fork
Varina da Madragoa
Operating for more than thirty years in the quaint area of Madragoa, this restaurant is all about authentic local cuisine. Originally housing a hosiery market in 1939, the location transformed through various incarnations, from a beverage outlet in 1940 to a renowned wine and food house by 1945. The restaurant gained its current name and fame in the late 20th century when António Oliveira rejuvenated the space, once a humble tavern, into a citywide culinary sensation during the 70s and 80s. Today, Varina da Madragoa invites diners to indulge in classic dishes served in traditional clay cookware. The menu highlights include superbly prepared cod dishes like bacalhau à Brás, flat codfish cakes (pataniscas), and the house’s speciality bacalhau à Varina. Meat lovers can enjoy alheira with sauteed turnip greens, Minho style fried pork (rojões), and several styles of steak. Once Varina da Madragoa’s popularity can lead to long lines, we recommend making a reservation beforehand.
📍Rua Madres 34, 1200-109 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/varinadamadragoa
Photo by Lisbon Shopping
Fado no Convento
Hidden in a quaint corner of Madragoa, Fado no Convento offers a truly unique experience inside a centuries-old convent turned restaurant. Here, the traditional Portuguese Fado music creates a captivating backdrop to a menu that elegantly blends local flavors with French influences. If you are looking to immerse yourself into Portuguese culture while visiting Lisbon, Fado no Convento in Madragoa might just end up offering a more authentic experience than many more popular Fado restaurants in other touristic areas of Lisbon, such as Alfama. Foodwise, the menu includes a selection of local charcuterie, foie gras and fresh oysters from the Sado river near Setúbal; as well as more substantial dishes like corvina fish with roasted tomato rice, Aveiro glasswort and herbs, confit cod with turnip purée and fondant potato, or tender duck leg confit with gastrique sauce. Maybe you didn’t think enjoying some French inspired flavors would be in the cards while listening to uber traditional Fado music in Lisbon, but Fado no Convento sure is bound to surprise and delight!
📍Tv. do Convento das Bernardas 12, 1200-761 Lisbon
Photo by TheFork
Marco
The days when pursuing an authentic Francesinha, here in Lisbon, was an almost impossible task are thankfully gone. There are several good restaurants to eat this iconic sandwich originally from Porto in the Portuguese capital, and Marco in the neighborhood of Santos happens to be one of them. With its roots in Vila Nova de Famalicão, where it has been a staple for nearly two decades, Marco opened in Lisbon back in 2014 to bring the genuine taste of northern Portugal to the capital. They source the key ingredients to make this speciality, like cured sausages, directly from Porto, in pursuit of the genuine flavors locals rave about up north. But, besides this Portuguese adaptation of the French croque monsieur, stuffed with meats, drenched in tomato beer sauce, with toppings such as melted cheese and, sometimes, even a fried egg, there’s more to be enjoyed directly from Marco’s menu. Other hit-the-spot, and certainly not light, bites include fritters like meat rissóis, burgers, shrimps with bacon and fries, and decadent Portuguese desserts like biscuits cake with buttercream (bolo de bolacha) and chocolate mousse.
📍Largo Santos 14D, 1200-808 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/restaurantemarcolisboa
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Invicta Madragoa
If you like seafood, it’s no secret that Lisbon and, for that matter, most of Portugal, will be a wonder to explore. But here in the neighborhood of Santos, when we’re craving seafood focused comfort dishes, Invicta Madragoa is our top choice. This restaurant is run by chef Carla Nunes, who has crafted a menu that delights with its simplicity and freshness. Highlights from the menu include appetizers like garlic and ginger prawns, the house’s mussels (mexilhão à Invicta) and oysters with lime. Mains like Portuguese seafood rice or roasted octopus with olive oil (polvo à lagareiro) are good options if you want something more comforting than a straightforward grilled dish, though the catch of the day is usually quite varied, usually including at least ed snapper, sea bass and sea bream, and it is all undeniably fresh. This quaint restaurant offers just seven tables – this means that the setting is quite intimate but also that you are recommended to book in advance!
📍Rua da Esperança 14, 1200-659 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/InvictaMadrag
Photo by The Fork
O Arêgos
Located near the Puppet Museum, O Arêgos is a family owned restaurant that serves truly authentic Portuguese cooking. Here you can find several of the country’s most representative dishes, as well as excellent steaks. Regulars rave about the very well-prepared salted cod (bacalhau) as much as they do about the succulent filet steak served with chips. Thankfully there’s good home-made desserts to end with a sweet flavor in your mouth, including queijada, a Portuguese cottage cheese pudding and doce da casa, a layered sweet dish with custard and whipped cream. O Arêgos’ food is honest, served in good portions and at a great value for money – just the kind of joint we locals love and tourists are often surprised still exist in bustling neighborhoods such as Santos.
📍Rua da Esperança 182, 1200-656 Lisbon
www.facebook.com/p/O-AREGOS-100066927264464
Photo by O Arêgos on Facebook
O Soajeiro
We love that O Soajeiro focuses on Madeiran specialties, as food from this Portuguese archipelago isn’t always easy to come across in Lisbon. The restaurant, founded in 1986 by Martinho de Jesus after his return from South Africa, has evolved from a modest venue selling oil and coal into the dining institution that it is today. O Soajeiro is famous amongst locals not only for serving a mean espetada madeirense, but because it does so at very reasonable prices, yet without compromising quality. Espetadas, that is, skewers, are some of Madeira’s most famous dishes. Grilled over charcoal, featuring meats or a mix of meat and seafood like prawns or squid, they are hard to resist. Besides espetadas, O Soajeiro serves other charcoal-grilled fish and meats, as well as traditional comfort dishes like boiled meats and vegetables (cozido à portuguesa) and salted cod. If you are making the most of this opportunity to explore the flavors of Madeira, we recommend ordering a drink from the island too. You could try a Coral beer, a Brisa passion fruit soda or a glass of poncha, Madeira’s iconic drink, featuring a mix of sugarcane brandy, sugar and fruit juice.
📍Rua do Merca-Tudo 16, 1200-267 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/restauranteosoajeiro
Photo by O Soajeiro on Facebook
A Merendeira
Going out at night in Santos and not ending at A Merendeira during the late hours is for many party goers simply unthinkable. Simply put, this is one of those iconic places locals love and one of the most popular late-night restaurants in Lisbon. Renowned for its wood-fired oven-baked breads that are served warm throughout the day and night, there is no place like a Merendeira to comfort your stomach and help soak up the alcohol and, hopefully, reduces your chances of a dreadful hangover after a night out drinking. A Merendeira’s most popular items are chorizo stuffed bread, made in house from scratch and baked inside a wood-fire oven, and comforting caldo verde, a soup made with a base of pureed potato, and plenty of shredded collard greens kept company by a slide of chorizo added while platting. Before the time of late night kebabs and international fast food joints, A Merendeira kept us fed almost 24/7 and, no matter how many options keep popping all over the city (and we certainly hope this keeps happening for the sake of variety), we also wish A Merendeira sticks around for a long, long time.
📍Av. 24 de Julho 54, 1200-657 Lisbon
Photo by A Merendeira on Facebook
Contemporary food in Santos, with portuguese and international influences
Geographia
This restaurant is dedicated to “Lusophone gastronomy”, that is, cuisines from Portuguese speaking countries, who were former colonies of Portugal and that, culturally and gastronomically speaking, have been linked to Portugal ever since. This is a way to pay tribute to the cuisines from countries like Brazil, Macau, Cape Verde, São Tomé and Príncipe, Angola, Mozambique and East Timor, while also honoring the global legacy of Portuguese cuisine, considered by many to be one of the world’s first fusion cuisines. So, at Geographia, the dishes are not just Portuguese and visitors can savor recipes such as black pork midar-sin from East Timor, to Cape Verdean braised tuna loin with cachupa, or palm hearts bobó from Brazil. It’s not only cool that everyone sitting around the same table can order something from a different country, it’s particularly good that, here, you can enjoy dishes from cuisines that you’d be hard pressed to easily come across in Lisbon. To conclude the meal, the restaurant suggests a pijaminha of desserts, a cute term that literally translates as “small pajamas” but that stands for a mixed platter of desserts served together, allowing customers to enjoy a diverse and delicious taste of sweets.
📍Rua do Conde 1, 1200-608 Lisbon
https://restaurantegeographia.pt
Photo by Viaje Comigo
Maluca
Run by the creative duo Yann Rotundo and Stéphanie Graisier, this establishment took over the space previously known as BBB Taste, which they also owned. If the previous eatery was dedicated to some of Lisbon’s best sandwiches, now Maluca is all about blending traditional flavors with a modern twist, through experimentation with global cuisines. The restaurant’s menu keeps changing according to seasons and the chef’s strikes of creativity, but always translates into a refined dining experience. It’s not unusual to find dishes that would challenge the traditional Portuguese palate, including a lot of home-made fermented products. Following clear principles of sustainability and seasonality, Maluca tends to focus on vegetables over animal proteins and a preference for natural wines. Whether it’s the Swiss influence of Stéphanie or Yann’s Italo-Portuguese background, the dishes at Maluca are a culinary exploration of their travels, and we’re happy they are contributing to enrich Lisbon’s gastronomic scene.
📍Rua da Esperança 44, 1200-658 Lisboa
www.instagram.com/maluca.lisbon
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Black Trumpet
Managed by duo Emil Stefkov and Sacha Gielbaum, renowned for their vibrant beach club, Casa Reîa, in Costa de Caparica, Black Trumpet is a mushroom focus restaurant that stands out not just for its eclectic menu but also because it has live music every day. This establishment is committed to exploring the culinary potential of fungi, so the menu showcases a variety of mushrooms, from familiar choices like shiitake and portobello to exotic types such as porcini and the namesake black trumpet. Besides the actual mushrooms, local produce is also celebrated in appetizers like sourdough bread with mushroom and citrus butter or eryngui croquettes with smoked aioli; to dishes like crispy portobello with cabbage and tonkatsu sauce, to grilled sea bream with gremolata sauce, or fig salad with blueberries, croutons, and balsamic vinaigrette. Pair your meal with a signature cocktail, such as the unique coriander sour or shitake mule, for a very surprising twist.
📍Rua da Esperança 44, 1200-658 Lisbon
Photo by The Fork
A Obra
In the very own words of this tapas and cocktail bar, they are all about “honest and creative food that’s meant to be shared”. The menu focuses on local seasonal ingredients, supported by a fascinating selection of natural and biodynamic wines. Their concept is cleverly divided into two, each offering a unique dining experience. Quitanda by Obra caters to lovers of Portuguese tapas, perfect for those looking to enjoy traditional Portuguese bites with a modern twist. A Obra goes Asia, on the other hand, explores the rich flavors of Asian cuisine infused with Portuguese elements, offering many vegetarian and vegan options. Among the standout dishes are steam-cooked mussels with garlic and cilantro, a uniquely prepared codfish xerém with piso (a traditional Portuguese sauce with flavors such as cilantro and garlic), cured corvina with citrus and tarragon, octopus rice, and even plant forward dishes like homemade seitan with eggplant purée. A Obra also has a curated selection of natural wines that varies constantly so that you can enjoy them not only when you are ready to order a full bottle, but also sip by the glass.
📍Rua de Santos-o-Velho 5, 1200-109 Lisbon
Photo by A Obra on Facebook
Catch Me
Situated beside the Museu de Arte Antiga with an unparalleled view of the Tagus River, Catch Me has taken over the location formerly known as Le Chat, consistently highlighted as one of Lisbon’s best rooftops. The menu options range from Brazilian influences to Asian and Portuguese cuisines, served in a venue with a careful decor inspired by the Pan Am’s aviation era, which makes sense when you know that the name was inspired by Spielberg’s movie “Catch Me If You Can”. You could come here to sip a drink and enjoy the marvelous view, but we’d certainly recommend you grab a bite too. Start with something like the fried tapioca cubes served with piri-piri jelly, or the tuna tartare with avocado and oyster sauce. For mains, indulge in duck rice (arroz de pato), grilled octopus or a hearty sandwich. Amongst the desserts menu, we love the French toast here prepared with bolo do caco, a typical flat bread from Madeira, prepared with wheat and sweet potato, and that truly works great for soaking the milky mixture used to prepare this sweet dish. As if all of this wasn’t enough, Catch Me also has live DJs on Friday and Saturday nights and live music from jazz to samba on Sundays.
📍Jardim 9 de Abril, 1200-736 Lisbon
Photo by Catch Me
Bakeries, pastry shops and other speciality food stores in Santos
doBeco Santos
This artisanal bakery in Lisbon stands out because of its dedication to the art of slow and natural fermentation. It first opened back in 2023 in the neighborhood of Arroios, later on opening a second location in Santos, where they mix the allure of a pastry shop with some sit-down restaurant options, particularly suited for breakfast and brunch, but certainly not limited to those meals. The space is run by António José de Mello, who was a former tech professional who, like many of us, discovered the beauty of bread-making during the pandemic. Together with his brother Lourenço José de Mello, and after hosting private dinners, they decided to fully embrace their passion for baking and cooking. Today, whether you visit doBeco in Arrois or Santos, you can enjoy an irresistible array of pastries, as well as breads and meal options that make good use of their main product, featuring toppings like eggs, bacon, salmon and more. Keep an open mind, as doBeco’s brunch dishes take the owner’s international experiences into account, and may feature surprising but delicious elements like kimchi on your eggs, or grilled oyster mushrooms and roasted red peppers paste on top of a Danish. So, so good!
📍Rua de São João da Mata 18, 1200-849 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/dobeco_padaria
Photo by NIT
Pastelaria Apolo XI
Apolo XI is the type of Portuguese pastelaria (literally translated as pastry shop) which is becoming more and more elusive in Lisbon these days. More than coffee shops, pastelarias in Portugal are multipurpose establishments, which serve breakfast, baked goods and coffee during the day and, in many cases, also prepare daily specials to serve for lunch only, at affordable prices. On many occasions, this is the type of place where the masses go each around midday, rather than going to more expensive proper restaurants. Pastelaria Apolo XI offers an authentic café experience reminiscent of Lisbon’s golden days. We’re not talking about anything fancy, much on the contrary. We’re talking about the simplicity that comes associated with traditional Portuguese fare at a pastelaria: freshly baked sweet options like pastel de nata, pão de deus and more; savories like codfish cakes, meat croquetes and chicken pies, and affordable coffee that is often enjoyed by the counter (ao balcão) when you’re in a hurry (but never to go!). At Apolo XI you can also still enjoy the kind of stripped down genuine hospitality that is rarer today and that often makes visits feel almost like a local. Come by Apolo XI to enjoy a typical Portuguese breakfast, mingle with the local folks who live in Santos, and don’t be shy to strike up conversation!
📍Rua Santos-O-Velho 92, 1200-735 Lisbon
Photo by CallPat on TripAdvisor
Comida Independente
More than a regular gourmet grocery store, Comida Independente (whose name translates as independent food) is hub for sourcing high quality products from small scale producers from all over Portugal, right of the centre of the city. Open since 2018, this place has become a reference for those seeking authenticity over mass-market offerings, the brand’s motto being “comida independente, grandes produtos, pequenos produtores” (independent food, great products, small producers). Rita Santos, the store’s founder, spent her pre-store days traveling from north to south of Portugal to hand-pick most of the products the store now sells herself. We’re talking about authentic Portuguese items like fresh bread, fruits, and legumes to the artisanal jams, honeys, sausages, chocolates, and wines. In fact, Comida Independente has its very own wine club named Alcateia (Portuguese for wolf pack), that regularly hosts talks with wine markers, tasting sessions and workshops. Come to Comida Independente for a little shopping of produce to take home to cook, or to sample incredible regional cheeses from across Portugal, charcuterie that you won’t normally see in the regular supermarkets’ shelves, and even have a sit for an artisanal sandwich prepared in their very own deli.
📍Rua Cais do Tojo 28, 1200-649 Lisbon
Photo by Lisboa ConVida
Garrafeira de Santos
This boutique wine shop (garrafeira) offers an extensive selection that spans from traditional Portuguese wines and Ports to sparkling wines and premium spirits, all chosen with an emphasis on quality and value. Because this is not a very large store, you can count on personalized service which may come in handy if you are eager to explore the many different wine regions of Portugal, but wouldn’t know where to start. You can chat with the knowledgeable staff who will ensure you leave with something that would usually fit your taste from amongst the assortment of both local and international labels. If you are interested in natural wines or, simply, bottles that come from small producers, you’ll see that Garrafeira de Santos provides a platform for these artisans to showcase their exceptional products.
📍Rua Santos-O-Velho 74, 1200-813 Lisbon
Photo by Life Cooler
Where to grab a drink in the Lisbon neighborhood of Santos
Ressaca Tropical
Ressaca Tropical’s brand started as a wine importation venture but is now a chic wine bar in Santos. Founded in 2021, they showcase natural wines with minimal human intervention, with an extensive selection of over 40 varieties. These include intriguing labels from Australia, thanks to one of the founders, and from countries across Europe. Inside Ressaca Tropical, the space is split into two levels. The ground floor serves as the main bar area, lined with bottles and frequented by patrons eager to explore its diverse offerings. Downstairs transforms into a more intimate lounge, occasionally hosting DJs to complement the wine-tasting experience with some rhythm that makes customers want to stick around for longer. What makes Ressaca Tropical stand out amongst Lisbon’s wine bar scene isn’t just the wine per se, but the narratives that the staff makes sure to share while pouring. Here, you’ll not only know what you are sipping, you may end up getting acquainted with the producers themselves, or at least you’ll know what their history is like, and why they do what they do. Beyond wines, the bar extends its minimal intervention philosophy to also other beverages, such as the medronho (spirit from the fruit of the strawberry tree) from southern Portugal, and artisanal mezcal from Mexico. Even the snacks here adhere to simplicity and quality, with a selection of cheese boards, cured meats, and pâtés, though the menu remains intentionally concise to keep the focus on the drinks. Going to Ressaca Tropical, and particularly attending one of their events, is a sure way to connect with folks passionate about sustainable winemaking.
📍Rua Gaivotas 23, 1200-201 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/ressacatropical
Photo by NIT
Xafarix
Opened in 1986, Xafarix has lived many lives. Once a butcher shop, it later became a historical bar opened by popular Portuguese musician Luís Represas and, now, as the neighborhood of Santos becomes more and more international, is even part comedy club, with stand up comedy nights in English and Italian. Back in the 80s and 90s, Xafarix was one of Lisbon’s most important venues for live music and cultural promotion. Because of that, this store is even protected under the municipal program Lojas Com História, which safeguards and supports commercial establishments that have somewhat contributed not only to the local economy but, over all, to the identity of the Portuguese capital. In recent years, it is clear that Xafarix has adapted to Lisbon’s evolving demographic, with events that mostly cater to the city’s growing community of expatriates. Comedy nights, from Wednesday to Saturday, often see the bar’s 56 seats filled with an international crowd eager to share a laugh about life in Lisbon from a foreigner’s perspective. Not everyone is happy about the new path Xafarix is following. But there’s no doubt that this new approach makes the venue not only a historical site but also a contemporary cultural hub where locals and expats alike can appreciate the city’s quirks and charms through comedy.
📍Av. Dom Carlos I 69, 1200-647 Lisbon
Photo by Mensagem de Lisboa
Insaciável
Opened by the French duo Caroline Bos and Arnaud Quinty, Insaciável is in its essence a wine bar, but that also offers a perfect fusion of hearty Portuguese flavors and more classical French techniques. Right at the heart of Santos, this is a great spot to sit down for a leisurely meal, and to keep sipping wine as you feel the neighborhood’s life all around you. The food at Insaciável is lovely, including French specialities like pâtés, terrines or delicate desserts based around choux pastry; but also Portuguese charcuterie and cheeses, local oysters and other Portuguese seafood specialities. Yet we think that what truly stands out is the thoughtfully curated wine list, also including French and Portuguese labels. This is the kind of place where you are likely to come across a wine you haven’t tried before. All you need to bring with you to make the most of the experience is an open mind… and an open mouth! If there’s a place in Santos where you can get truly creative at food and wine pairings, Insaciável is quite probably it.
📍Rua da Esperança 156, 1200-660 Lisbon
www.instagram.com/insaciavel.lisboa
Photo by Monocle
A day spent in Santos promises lots of pleasant sights and a good mouthfeel for sure! We invite you to keep discovering Lisbon from a local lens, following our regular posts on Instagram, with beautiful photos and plenty of appetizing tips! #tasteoflisboa
Feed your curiosity on Portuguese food culture:
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Pastry chefs who have made a mark on Lisbon’s culinary scene
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