Traditional Portuguese dishes that are disappearing

March 21, 2025

In Portugal, there’s a whole hidden menu of foods that are quietly slipping away from our tables. We’re mostly talking about ingredients and recipes that tell the story of Portugal’s past, a time when people made the most of what they had, creating something special out of necessity. At Taste of Lisboa, we’ve been digging into these disappearing delicacies, and we’re here to share why they’re worth hunting down.

A lot of these culinary gems are disappearing for reasons like pollution and climate change affecting fish populations, or because the recipes are complex and people nowadays often opt for quicker, simpler meals. Others are linked to traditional ways of life, like using every part of an animal, practices that have mostly moved from the home kitchen to commercial butcheries. Plus, let’s be honest, some of these dishes are an acquired taste that even locals, particularly the younger generations, may shy away from.

Despite this, these foods are a must-try for anyone who truly wants to experience the full spectrum of Portuguese culinary culture. We’re talking about food products and preparations that certainly aren’t on the typical tourist trail. In fact, many of them aren’t even known to many locals, especially younger folks. But if you’re visiting Portugal as a foodie, or even if you’re local and adventurous, stepping off the beaten path for these rare bites is an opportunity to try something new but it’s also about connecting with Portugal’s history and the country’s resilient, inventive spirit behind the stove.

So, if your travels take you across our beautiful country, or even if you’re just exploring Lisbon itself, keep your eyes peeled and your taste buds ready. You might just discover something spectacularly uncommon.

Feat photo by Expresso

Cuscos Transmontanos | Portugal’s take on couscous

a group of people sitting at a table Photo by Sapo Lifestyle

Cuscos, a dish often not immediately associated with Portugal, traces its roots back to the food traditions of North Africa, specifically from the Maghreb region where it was a staple food among the Berber tribes. Similar to what is globally known as couscous, the journey of cuscos to the Iberian Peninsula is attributed to the Moorish conquests, introducing a diverse range of cooking practices to the region. Surprisingly, cuscos found a particular stronghold in the northern Portuguese region of Trás-os-Montes, an area where Moorish influence was historically minimal. It is believed that the Jewish communities, who settled in these remote areas and who had inherited a lot of the Andalusian and Northern African culinary traditions, were crucial in integrating cuscos into the local diet.

This connection to distant lands and cultures, often across the globe and throughout history, shows how in certain ways we’re all connected and that ends up showing in the little everyday things. Over the centuries, cuscos were a significant part of the regional gastronomy in the municipalities of Bragança and Vinhais. Around here, cuscos are still traditionally made from Barbela wheat, a grain abundantly grown in the region, which is transformed into a product that can be stored for many months, providing a sustainable alternative to historically more expensive staples like pasta and rice.

The production of cuscos has until now survived thanks to artisanal skills passed down through generations, primarily by the women of this region. The process starts with placing flour in a traditional wooden trough, known as a masseira. Water is gently sprinkled onto the flour, a process facilitated by a broom made of local broom tree or a gentle shake of the fingers, initiating the formation of small granules. These granules are then carefully twisted by hand to ensure a certain level of consistency. This labor-intensive step is often a communal effort, helping not only to lighten the workload but also to foster social interaction. After shaping, the cuscos are sieved to ensure uniform size and then spread out on a linen cloth to dry. Depending on the weather, this could take a couple of hours in the sun or overnight if left indoors. The final step involves steaming the cuscos.

Despite its interesting heritage and unique flavor, the art of making cuscos is endangered. Today, only a few artisans like Isabel Alves and Lurdes Diegues continue to practice and preserve this culinary tradition. Their commitment highlights a significant challenge: the younger generation’s disinterest in adopting such time-consuming traditions, casting uncertainty over the future of cuscos in regional gastronomy.

If you are intrigued and would like to experience cuscos in Lisbon, they occasionally appear on the tasting menus of high-end restaurants like LOCO (Rua Navegantes 53B) by chef Alexandre Silva and, on a plant-based version, at Encanto (Largo de São Carlos 10) by chef Avillez. The menus of these restaurants are seasonal, so coming across cuscos is not guaranteed. If you’re open to buying them and cooking them at home, you may also check specialty stores such as O Pitéu Transmontano (Largo Dona Estefânia 6A) or purchase them online any time of the year.

Maranho | stuffed goat stomach

a plate of food Photo by RTP

Maranho is a culinary gem from the heart of Sertã, which is a part of the Castelo Branco district in the center inland Portuguese province of Beira Baixa. Originally served at weddings and village festivities, this dish has evolved from a rare festive treat to a sought-after specialty, compelling both locals and food enthusiasts to seek it out. Sometimes, it is seen as one of the so-called “bizarre foods of Portugal”. This unique dish is a testament to the Portuguese tradition of utilizing every part of the animal, showcasing a culinary resourcefulness that is one of the back-bones of some of the most traditional regional Portuguese specialities.

Making maranho involves delicately sewing a cleaned and washed goat or sheep stomach (locally known as bandouga), and filling it with a seasoned stuffing. The primary ingredients include finely chopped goat or sheep meat, short grain rice from the local Carolino variety, and fresh mint, which are combined with some bacon, ham, olive oil, and white wine. Some variations might include chouriço, lemon juice, pepper or piripiri, and garlic, adding different nuances of taste. The mixture is left to marinate for the flavors to develop, before being added to the rice and encased within the stomach. This bag is then filled only three-quarters full to prevent bursting during the cooking process, typically boiled with a hint of mint to release its full flavor profile and add a touch of freshness that contrasts with the heaviness of the meats.

Despite its rich flavor and cultural significance, maranho remains relatively uncommon today due to the labor-intensive preparation and the scarcity of its primary ingredient, the bandouga. The shift from home raised animals to more commercial butchering, as well as contemporary dining preferences, has certainly contributed to its rarity too. Furthermore, the skill and patience required to prepare maranho are virtues that are fading in today’s fast-paced culinary world.

Thankfully, the IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) status of maranho da Sertã plays a crucial role in preserving this culinary treasure. This designation ensures that the dish adheres to its traditional preparation methods and authentic local ingredients, protecting its heritage and maintaining its presence in Portuguese cuisine. Without this protective status, maranho might risk disappearing altogether, taking with it a piece of Portugal’s gastronomic identity.

For those looking to experience this rare dish, Sertã is the go-to place, where maranho has become synonyms of the local gastronomic culture. Here in Lisbon, you may get lucky at the iconic grocery store Manteigaria Silva (Rua D. Antão de Almada 1C) or at the supermarket of the fairly large department store El Corte Inglês (Av. António Augusto de Aguiar 31), where you may be able to buy a pre-prepared maranho. If you purchase it, simply boil it at home, and it’s even better if you’re able to do it with a sprig of mint. The time required to cook it is usually at least 90 minutes and, after it’s been immersed in boiling water, you may want to place it in a preheated oven to roast a little, allowing the meat to get golden to improve the texture. As this is already a product with meat and rice, we recommend sauteeing some green such as turnip green (grelos) and serve with the slice maranho.

Lampreia do Minho | Lamprey from the Minho river

a close up of a chocolate cake on a plate Photo by Visão

Lamprey, or lampreia, is a unique speciality, particularly popular along the Minho River in northern Portugal. This prehistoric cyclostome has navigated the waters of the earth for over 300 million years, making it a true living fossil. Born in the river, the lamprey migrates to the sea only to return to its freshwater birthplace to spawn. Its capture, mostly still following traditional methods, utilizes ancient fishing structures locally known as pesqueiras, which are now recognized as National Intangible Cultural Heritage. Although over 900 pesqueiras exist, fewer than 200 remain active today. The Minho River, stretching about 80 kilometers, has distinct fishing zones and methods, influenced by local tides and conditions. Traditional nets are preferred, as they are believed to maintain the fish’s quality better after a day or two in holding, enhancing its texture and flavor.

The lamprey season, eagerly awaited by Portuguese food enthusiasts, stretches from January to April. This period marks a festive time in the northern regions of Portugal, where lamprey is traditionally paired with green red wine. Locals have developed various recipes over the years, showcasing this fish in dishes such as lamprey rice (arroz de lampreia) and Bordelaise-style lamprey (Lampreia à bordalesa), and even less common preparations like a type of bread stew known as açorda, a type of bread stew, or a vinegary marinade usually applied to fish and which goes by the name escabeche.

Despite its longstanding presence in Portuguese cuisine and culture, lamprey is increasingly rare. This scarcity is largely attributed to habitat destruction, namely, the construction of dams that disrupt its migratory paths, and pollution. These factors not only threaten the lamprey’s existence but also the cultural traditions and local economies that rely on its seasonal catch.

Recognized as an endogenous resource of high gastronomic value, the lampreia do Rio Minho is celebrated through various initiatives aimed at promoting the natural and cultural assets of the Minho Valley. These efforts are part of broader strategies to manage natural resources sustainably, reinforcing the socioeconomic fabric of rural areas and supporting biodiversity conservation. March hosts the annual event Lampreia do Rio Minho – Um Prato de Excelência, involving various local entities and showcasing the gastronomic excellence of lamprey at restaurants throughout the Minho Valley. Many restaurants in towns close to the Minho river, such as Vila Nova de Cerveira, Valença do Minho, Monção and Melgaço, broaden their menus during this time to include traditional lamprey dishes, the so-called “river’s diamond”.

Despite being a critical part of local heritage, lamprey faces the threat of extinction, having been on Portugal’s Red List of critically endangered vertebrates since 2005. Efforts continue to promote sustainable fishing practices and environmental awareness, with hopes to prevent the disappearance of this species and the culinary traditions it supports.

For those in Lisbon wanting to experience this seasonal delicacy, several restaurants offer lamprey dishes around April. Solar dos Presuntos (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 150), Solar dos Nunes (Rua dos Lusíadas 68), Adega de Ti Matilde (Rua da Beneficência 77) and Os Courenses (Rua José Duro 27D – pictured here) are among the notable establishments where one can indulge in this rare treat.

Enguias | Eels

a plate of food on a table Photo by New in Setúbal

Enguias, Portuguese for eels, are a renowned delicacy in Portugal, particularly in regions like the estuary of the river Tejo, or the Ria de Aveiro. Traditionally cooked in a variety of ways such as fried, grilled, in stews, or cataplana, eels are a star of regional gastronomy and, as a seasonal, treat, they are celebrated through numerous food festivals around Portugal that are organized to promote them as a cherish food product, but also to bring the community together.

Historically, eels were an affordable option for many, but as demand has increased, so too has the price, reflecting their growing rarity and culinary prestige. In areas like the Lagoa de Santo André, eels have become a proud symbol of local cuisine, featured prominently in the annual food festival. The festival highlights traditional recipes and local culinary techniques, showcasing eels as a key ingredient in the proud gastronomic heritage of the region.

However, this culinary treasure is under threat. Eels are increasingly being recognized as a species at risk of extinction due to overfishing, habitat loss, and environmental changes affecting their complex life cycle. Eels are born in the distant Sargasso Sea, a sea in the Atlantic Ocean which happens to be the only sea without a land border, and undergo a remarkable journey across the Atlantic. They are guided by the Gulf Stream to the coasts of Europe, where they migrate up rivers like the Tejo into freshwater habitats. After living for up to two decades in these freshwater environments, they return to the Sargasso Sea to spawn and die, completing their life cycle.

Conservationists and scientists argue that the culinary practice of consuming eels needs to be reconsidered to prevent their disappearance. With eels figuring on the red list of threatened species, the ethical dilemma mirrors that faced by other delicacies derived from endangered species. The question arises whether tradition can be sustained without compromising the species’ survival, and discussions are ongoing about reducing eel consumption to allow their populations to recover.

For those in Lisbon seeking to experience this gastronomic specialty, options include taking a day trip to Montijo to visit Casa das Enguias (Rua Guarda Nacional Republicana 30), often referred to as “the temple of eels”. In Lisbon’s city center, restaurants like A Valenciana (Rua Marquês de Fronteira 157) might serve eels during seasons of abundance. Additionally, gastronomic festivals dedicated to eels, such as the Festival Gastronómico da Enguia in Murtosa, the Festival da Enguia da Lagoa de Santo André in Santiago do Cacém, or the Mês da Enguia in Salvaterra de Magos, offer visitors a unique opportunity to taste various traditional eel dishes and appreciate this increasingly rare specialty in its traditional context. If we should indeed enjoy eels or not, is up to personal consideration.

Doce de escorcioneira | black salsify candy

a half eaten doughnut sitting on top of a piece of paper Photo by Horadabuxa-Gastronomia

Black salsify, known in Portuguese as escorcioneira, is a plant which is historically linked with the culinary past of Évora, a city in the Alentejo region of Portugal. This rustic, spontaneous plant thrives particularly well on limey soil and has been a part of the local diet for centuries, used both in savory and sweet dishes as documented in Portuguese 17th-century cookbooks. Its dark, long, and fleshy roots were traditionally utilized in popular medicine and as a staple in the kitchens of Évora, where it was crystallized to make sweets that were cherished by children and adults alike.

Traditionally, escorcioneira was sold by intermediaries to small artisan workshops that produced crystallized sweets known as doce de escorcioneira. This delicacy involved cubing the roots of the plant, which were then cooked with sugar and citrus zests until crystallized. The mixture was stirred off the heat until it dried and hardened, after which it was broken into pieces and wrapped in paper. This sweet was once the most famous product of Évora, believed to have been named after the word “excursionist” due to the high number of visitors who came to the city to purchase it. About 50 years ago, this confection disappeared, likely due to modernization in agricultural practices, shifting commercial interests, and competition from other commercially packaged sweets.

In recent years, there has been a revival of interest in this traditional sweet. The Alentejo Slow Food Convivium is behind some of the efforts to recover the recipe and reintroduce these candies into the market, even if in specific contexts. Small-scale cultivation has resumed in places like Monte do Trigo and Portel, areas within central Alentejo that are part of the plant’s historical range. This resurgence is part of a broader movement to preserve and celebrate the region’s culinary heritage, which also includes other forgotten recipes that utilized escorcioneira.

The plant is nearly extinct today, but the revival efforts have brought back a piece of Évora’s gastronomic identity. For those interested in tasting this rare and historic sweet, visiting Évora during gastronomic festivals might offer an opportunity. For those in Lisbon wanting to explore the flavors of escorcioneira, a day trip to Évora could be an option, even though this sweet is so rare that there are certainly no guarantees. If you come across doce de escorcioneira and you get to try it, please take a photo and tell us all about it on Instagram.

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