Vila Franca de Xira travel guide for food lovers
Just a short drive from Lisbon, Vila Franca de Xira presents an inviting day trip destination that is massively overlooked both by international travelers and even locals in the Portuguese capital. This picturesque town, located along the banks of the Tejo River, opens a window to Portugal’s traditional countryside, particularly interesting for those who have only visited Lisbon and its surrounding urban areas.
Featured photo by Magg
Photo by Jornal Sol
If you travel from Lisbon to Vila Franca de Xira by car, the journey takes approximately 30 minutes via the A1, which is the fastest route. If you are dependent on public transport, regular trains run from Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia or Oriente stations directly to Vila Franca de Xira (see the schedule here), with the trip taking about 25 minutes – this quick and convenient trip explains why many folks who come to work everyday in Lisbon, actually live in Vila Franca, as the town is known in short.
Photo by CM Vila Fraca de Xira
Upon arrival, we believe that one of the best ways to get acquainted with Vila Franca de Xira is to take a walk roughly between the modern Fábrica das Palavras to the Casa Museu Dr. Sousa Martins in Alhandra. This 4km (or 2.5 miles) path runs parallel to the Tejo River, offering breathtaking views.
For those drawn to cultural explorations, Vila Franca de Xira does not disappoint. The Museu do Neo-Realismo (Rua Alves Redol 45) provides an in-depth look into Portugal’s neo-realist movement, showcasing a collection that spans literature, art, and political history. The Museu Municipal (Rua Serpa Pinto 65) further complements a cultural itinerary by diving into the local history and traditions that shaped the region. Casa das Palavras, a cultural hub housed in a strikingly modern building which was once a rice peeling factory, also has a regular programme of events, which you can check out here.
Photo by CM Vila Franca de Xira
Nature enthusiasts will find plenty to keep them entertained in Vila Franca de Xira. The Passadiços do Tejo (also known as Parque Linear Ribeirinho Estuário do Tejo) offers a peaceful boardwalk experience along the river, perfect for leisurely strolls or wildlife observation. EVOA – Espaço de Visitação e Observação de Aves is another must-visit, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the rich biodiversity of the Tagus Estuary’s wetlands.
Photo by EVOA
Visitors can also explore the expansive grounds of local manor houses such as Quinta Municipal da Piedade (Rua Padre Manuel Duarte, Póvoa de Santa Iria), Quinta Municipal do Sobralinho (Rua Escola 11, Sobralinho), and Quinta Municipal de Subserra (São João dos Montes). These estates offer a glimpse into the region’s agricultural and aristocratic past, with beautifully manicured gardens and historical architecture.
Photo by CM Vila Franca de Xira
No day trip would be complete without savoring the local cuisine. We highly suggest visiting the Municipal Market (Rua Dr. António José D’Almeida) to have a glimpse into what locals eat. Beyond that, Vila Franca de Xira hosts a variety of restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy traditional Portuguese dishes or a pleasant coffee break:
Best portuguese food restaurants in Vila Franca de Xira
150 Gramas
Under the guidance of chef Teles, 150 Gramas is perhaps one of the most surprising restaurants in Vila Franca de Xira’s dining scene. This contemporary spot resides in an elegantly refurbished space that once functioned differently, providing a modern ambiance with hints of the locale’s rustic heritage. The restaurant is celebrated for its innovative dishes that feature high-quality, local ingredients. A standout is the Rubia Galega beef, expertly prepared and served rare, showcasing the meat’s robust flavor. Another signature dish that locals rave about is the ossobuco croquettes, offering a crispy exterior with a succulently rich filling. The team’s dedication is also very notable when it comes to desserts, as well as the selective wine list curated by co-owner, Ricardo, emphasizing local wines that complement their dishes beautifully. 150 Gramas is a true culinary gem in Vila Franca de Xira – do not miss it!
📍Av. Combatentes da Grande Guerra 23, 2600-131 Vila Franca de Xira
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Voltar ao Cais
Also located in an old rice warehouse by the Tagus River, Voltar ao Cais serves a blend of traditional Portuguese cuisine with a modern twist. Dina Mendes and Marco Ascenção have been the soul of Voltar ao Cais for over fifteen years. The business, just like its owners, prides itself on its connection to local history and culture, which translates into some of their signature dishes, such as the tender fried eels with tomato rice, and the bull and shrimp cataplana. Dessert lovers will enjoy treats such as the baked apples in puff pastry, or the more unique pears poached in wine served with arrepiado de Almoster, which are local almond meal cookies. With a picturesque setting and Marco’s expertly paired wine selections, Voltar ao Cais offers a really good representation of Portuguese gastronomy for those visiting Vila Franca de Xira.
📍Av. Maj. José Joaquim de Paiva 55, 2600-422 Alhandra
Photo by Evasões
O Forno
Since its inception about 40 years ago by Fernando António Alves Carneiro and José Francisco Carapinha Gomes, who settled in the town in 1973 and brought with them a wealth of experience from the restaurant industry, O Forno has maintained a reputation for impeccable quality and service. O Forno is particularly renowned for its traditional and local cuisine, with dishes that reflect the culinary heritage of the region. Among its specialties, the fried sável, a type of river fish known in English as allis shad, served with savory bread pudding with fish roe (açorda de ovas) is known as one of the best in the region – pictured here. Beyond its famed sável, O Forno’s menu includes other delicacies such as monkfish rice (arroz de tamboril) and succulent skewers of beef loin. The skewered monkfish with prawns and the prawn skewers with garlic and cilantro açorda are other highlights. If possible, come with friends so that you can order a variety of things and share, as there are many appetizing options and the dishes are quite filling too.
📍Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda 143, 2600-273 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/ofornovilafranca
Photo by O Forno on Facebook
Restaurante Cabeça de Toiro
Cabeça de Toiro was established in 1908 in the historic heart of Vila Franca de Xira. Open for over a century, providing delicious experiences to generations of patrons, this restaurant truly is all about traditional Portuguese hospitality. The cuisine at Cabeça de Toiro doesn’t aim to innovate but rather perfects the art of home-style Portuguese cooking. The dishes, while straightforward, are very well prepared. The restaurant is particularly noted for its bull meat, one of the specialities of the Ribatejo region where Vila Franca is located. The staff is known to be warm and sweet, but if a real sugar rush is what you’re after, we highly recommend asking for a fidalgo for dessert. This sweet conventual recipe features an ungodly amount of egg yolks and sugar, but it sure is a treat worth enjoying while in Portugal.
📍Rua Heróis da Guerra Peninsular 17, 2600-152 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/restaurantecabecadetoiro
Photo by Manticore on TripAdvisor
Tendinha do Marquês
Tendinha do Marques offers the quintessential taste of Portuguese cuisine right in the heart of Alhandra, a parish of Vila Franca de Xira. This local favorite, known for its traditional approach, features a charcoal barbecue where the owner himself tends to the grilling. If you’re not sure what to order, there’s nothing better than to strike up a conversation with the owner to learn what’s fresh on the menu that day. When in season, the grilled sardines are a local hit, but any time of the year there are other species of fish expertly prepared on the grill, offering a deliciously smoky flavor. Besides grills, the restaurant also serves classic Portuguese dishes, such as the hearty bitoque, featuring a steak with a fried egg and potato fries, and a variety of cod dishes including baked cod with olive oil and potatoes (bacalhau à lagareiro) and boiled cod served with chickpeas (bacalhau cozido com grão). Tendinha do Marques is located by the riverside, and its food is fresh, consistent and offers excellent value for money, so no wonder it is usually packed with locals.
📍Rua Marquês Rio Maior 14, 2600-484 Alhandra
www.facebook.com/people/Tendinha-do-Marques-Restaurante
Photo by Restaurant Guru
Morgado Taberna 2017
Living by its slogan “Don’t just eat life with a knife and fork, dig in!” this restaurant with a well thought decor excels in creating an environment where food becomes an experience. Morgado Taberna 2017 frequently organizes wine tastings and private dinners, where the food, which is at the end of the day the most important thing a restaurant should care for, marries traditional Portuguese recipes with an innovative twist. From the sea inspired menu, we’d highlight the cuttlefish strips with herb and garlic mayo as an appetizer, or the squid lagareiro style, with plenty of olive olive drenched over smashed potatoes and greens, which is succulent and flavorful. For meat lovers, the pork loin drizzled with mustard, honey, and herb sauce, is a sure bet. This isn’t for sure the most budget friendly option to dine around Vila Franca de Xira. If your budget is limited but you’re still keen on trying Morgado Taberna 2017, we recommend taking advantage of the executive menu served for lunch during the week, which includes an appetizer, a main dish, a drink and a dessert for less than 20 euros.
📍Urbanizaçao Malvarosa Parque Bloco 2-Lote 41, Piso 0 Loja 3, 2615-071 Alverca do Ribatejo
Photo by Morgado Taberna 2017 on Facebook
O Retiro
One of O Retiro’s standout dishes is the fried shad with roe açorda, which exemplifies the art of simple yet flavorful cooking that is often the approach of Portuguese cooks. The shad is perfectly fried, paired with an aromatic açorda that’s enriched with roe and fresh cilantro for freshness and balance. For those intrigued by other traditional Portuguese bread dishes apart from açorda, O Retiro’s torricado de bacalhau is a must-try. This dish is Portugal’s answer to bruschetta and consists of thick slices of bread grilled until crispy, topped with salted cod (bacalhau), olive oil, and garlic. It’s a rustic, hearty dish that farmers in the region would often prepare when out for work in the fields. Service at O Retiro is speedy and warm. The owner himself often serves tables, bringing a personal touch with his ever-present smile and relaxed demeanor that makes guests feel right at home. The restaurant is cozy, adorned with elements that reflect the local culture and gastronomy. Dessert is not to be missed, particularly the almond tart.
📍Rua Luís de Camões 14, 2600-181 Vila Franca de Xira
Photo by Ana de Melo Pina on Google
O Cantinho do Pavão
O Cantinho do Pavão marries Ribatejan flavors with a modern touch. Known for its simple yet cozy ambiance, this restaurant has become known thanks to some of its specialty dishes that showcase the richness of the Ribatejo’s countryside. The menu features comfort recipes such as oven roasted kid goat (cabrito à padeiro), a hearty pork belly stew known in Portuguese as chispalhada, their oven-roasted pork cheeks (queixadas no forno), or the hearty rabbit and chickpea stew (guisado de coelho com grão). If you are on a day trip from Lisbon and curious to sample the taste of rural Portuguese cuisine, this can certainly be accomplished at O Cantinho do Pavão in Vila Franca de Xira. Furthermore, as many other restaurants in the region, the establishment also prepares local river delicacies like eels and shad, which are some of the most relevant ingredients of the cuisine of this region.
📍Rua Barroca de Baixo 18, 2600-112 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/p/Restaurante-O-Cantinho-do-Pavão-100089713730176
Photo by O Cantinho do Pavão on Facebook
Cantinho da Adanaia
Cantinho da Adanaia in Vila Franca de Xira serves some of the best codfish lagareiro style in the region! This is no small claim, as this one of those beloved Portuguese dishes patrons are usually quite demanding about. Cod of the highest quality is roasted and then generously drizzled with abundant olive oil, infused with heaps of garlic. Another standout dish here is the hunter style rabbit (coelho à caçador), with a rich gamey flavor balanced with a deeply aromatic and wine sauce. This dish, like their bacalhau, speaks volumes about the restaurant’s ability to maintain the authenticity of traditional Portuguese dishes while presenting them in a way that feels both refined and approachable. Desserts at Cantinho da Adanaia are no less exceptional, with farófias, a traditional Portuguese dessert made with fluffy whipped egg whites poached in milk, being one of the sweet highlights. With a thoughtful selection of wines to complement the dishes and a dedication to impeccable hospitality, this restaurant is a must visit, not only if you are actually going to Vila Franca de Xira for the day, but simply even for the sake of a meal outside of Lisbon, but close enough to it that a trip here would be entirely justified just to eat like a royal!
📍Pça Malvarosa, 2615-043 Alverca do Ribatejo
www.facebook.com/cantinhodadanaia
Photo by Time Out Lisboa
Tasca da Vila
Tasca da Vila offers genuine Portuguese cuisine in a warm, family-friendly setting. This eatery is a go-to spot in Vila Franca de Xira for those seeking the comfort of classic Portuguese dishes, served in a setting that feels like home. The restaurant is particularly famous for its carne de porco à Alentejana, a savory dish of pork marinated in wine and garlic, served with clams and potatoes. Other highlights include the bitoque, a typical steak topped with a fried egg, and bife da casa, a house steak special flavored with the restaurant’s unique sauce. For those with a preference for seafood, the bacalhau à casa and bacalhau à Bráz offer delightful interpretations of salted cod, one of the most relevant ingredients in the Portuguese kitchen. Come here for a leisurely lunch or a cozy dinner, that faithfully reflects Portuguese culinary traditions.
📍Rua Luís de Camões 22, 2600-179 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/p/Tasca-da-Vila-100035172596203
Photo by Ricciule Ture on Google
A Marisqueira
A Marisqueira is the prime destination for seafood enthusiasts in Vila Franca de Xira. Some of the menu highlights include seafood rice (arroz de marisco) and savory bread stew with shrimp (açorda de gambas). Their range of sea inspired appetizers includes Portuguese classics such as clams in garlic and cilantro sauce (amêijoas à Bulhão Pato – check our recipe for this dish here!), garlic prawns (gambas ao alho), and stuffed crab (sapateira recheada), as well as other more unusual seafood species commonly eaten in Portugal, which are perfect before digging into the simplest but most delightful fresh fish grilled over charcoal. Moreover, A Marisqueira caters to all palates by including options such as steaks and Iberian black pork cutlets (secretos de porco preto), also grilled over charcoal. Whether you are in the mood for a hearty seafood platter or a simple, elegantly grilled fish, A Marisqueira promises a culinary journey that celebrates the best of the ocean right in the heart of Vila Franca de Xira.
📍Rua Almeida Garrett 26, 2600-262 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/amarisqueiraoficial
Photo by A Marisqueira on Facebook
Flor do Tejo
Even though Flor do Tejo does serve some petiscos and a selection of wines, this establishment is more a café and a bar than a restaurant. This is an ideal location for those looking to unwind with a glass of wine while enjoying small, flavorful bites, which are perfect for sharing. The setting of Flor do Tejo is undoubtedly one of its biggest draws. Located by the docks, it offers stunning views of the Tejo River, making it a favorite for both morning coffee drinkers and those looking to relax with an ice-cold beer as the sun sets. The café-bar’s atmosphere is enhanced by its open-door policy towards pets, and the occasional live event. You’d be hard pressed finding a more scenic backdrop that encapsulates the charm of Vila Franca de Xira as you’ll find in Flor do Tejo. If you’d like to enjoy the views while mingling with locals, this is the place to be!
📍Largo Cais 1, 2600-422 Vila Franca de Xira
www.facebook.com/flordotejobar
Photo by Flor do Tejo on Facebook
Where to enjoy typical baked goods and pastries in Vila Franca de Xira
T-Space
T-Space Casa de Chá in Vila Franca de Xira offers a tranquil spot for tea lovers and those seeking a quiet corner to relax. This charming tea house stands out for its vast selection of aromatic teas but also for its thoughtful décor that combines contemporary style with comforting homeliness. In addition to its teas, T-Space Casa de Chá has a small yet delightful menu of light meals and snacks, perfect for a mid-afternoon pick me up. The menu includes freshly baked pastries, homemade cakes, and a selection of artisanal sandwiches. The interior of T-Space is designed to provide a cozy escape from the bustling outside world, with soft lighting, comfortable seating, and shelves lined with books and tea-related items that invite guests to linger longer. For those who appreciate the finer things in life, T-Space Casa de Chá can be used as the space for a mini retreat, when you get tired of a day out and about exploring the town.
📍Rua de Palha Blanco 84 Castanheira Do Ribatejo, 2600-667 Vila Franca de Xira
Photo by Restaurant Guru
O Pão da Avó
O Pão da Avó in Vila Franca de Xira is your typical Portuguese bakery and café, known for its warm staff, exceptional home-baked pastries and robust coffee. Here you’ll be able to sample the usual range of cakes and pastries you’d normally find at a Portuguese pastelaria, as well as more decadent cakes for celebrations. Beyond pastries, they also have a good range of Portuguese breads, as well as savory snacks. Overall, this is a good place for a quick snack or a satisfying Portuguese style breakfast.
📍Rua Alves Redol, 2600-100 Vila Franca de Xira
Photo by Restaurant Guru
Moinho d’Água
Moinho d’Água is, quite possibly, one of the most reputed pastry shops in the whole Ribatejo province. The variety of desserts at Moinho d’Água is truly impressive, showcasing a range from traditional Portuguese sweets to modern treats. We’d recommend trying the tigeladas, a traditional Portuguese custard tart, unlike pastel de nata with no crust around the creamy part, that represents the country’s deep affection for rich and velvety desserts. For those looking for something a bit different, Moinho d’Água also excels in creating unique desserts like their donut cake topped with salted caramel and a pavlova adorned with seasonal fruits like figs, all clearly not traditionally Portuguese, but nevertheless irresistible. They even embrace global pastry trends with their crookies, a novel combination of a croissant and a cookie that anyone with a social media account would have come across at some point, if not in Portugal, somewhere in North America. Not to be overlooked are their savory snacks, such as the aromatic freshly baked bread filled with cheese and chorizo. There seems to be something for everyone at Moinho d’Água – their range of products truly is impressive!
📍Largo César Alípio Ferreira 15, 2615-139 Alverca do Ribatejo
www.instagram.com/moinhodaguapastelaria
Photo by Gastroranking
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